Haider Ackermann out at Berluti

The collaboration lasted only a year and a half between Haider Ackermann and Berluti, but it was a fruitful year and a half. This is how Antoine Arnault, CEO of the LVMH-owned luxury men's label, described Ackermann’s impact on the brand.


Haider Ackermann - Mark Abrahams

“Haider has been at the core of the evolution of Berluti’s collections and image these past few seasons. I want to thank him for everything he has accomplished since his arrival. His feel for materials, colors, and his wonderful shows will always be linked to the history of the house,” said the eldest son of Bernard Arnault.

The French designer of Colombian origin brought a pared-down sophisticated look to the Berluti men’s collections that also translated into double-digit growth in sales for the brand, as Antoine Arnault told FashionNetwork.com last November.

About leaving Berluti, Ackermann said: “I am immensely proud to have been able to put my creativity at the service of this house with an exceptional know-how, whilst working with a passionate team. I thank them for their commitment.”
 
But rumors have been circulating that not everything was completely harmonious during Ackermann's stay at the Parisian label. According to well-informed sources, Antoine Arnault was increasingly unhappy with Ackermann’s commitment to the House and by his frequent absences.

While Ackermann’s runway shows were well-received critically, Arnault felt that the creative team at Berluti lacked a leader who could drive them on a daily basis and thought that Ackermann was spending too much time with his own eponymous label.

Speculation will now be intense about whether Ackermann will be replaced by Belgian designer Kris Van Assche, who recently relinquished of his duties at Dior Homme while LVMH finds him a new post in its portfolio. The LVMH group, currently in the game of musical chairs with a reshuffle at Celine, Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme, said it will soon announce Berluti’s new creative director.

Van Assche is regarded as a hardworking professional who has built a healthy celebrity following and grown revenues at Dior Homme. His Black Carpet concept for Dior -- where he worked for Antoine’s farther Bernard -- could easily be applied at Berluti.

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