Julius: A military-chic call to revolt

By

Erin Floyd

Published
Jun 22, 2017

For a designer known for themes of chaos, Julius’ SS18 collection was laser-focused. In an underground car park in central Paris, designer Tatsuro Horikawa sent out a cast of skinhead punk models to storm the concrete runway in an invigorating ode to 80s American hardcore.  
 

Drawing on Western music subculture, the Japanese designer delivered a modern take on the punk aesthetic, sending out his austerely groomed cast in cut-out fishnet hoodies, skinny jeans ripped at the knee and black leather combat boots.  Eschewing the dystopian gloom of his previous outing, Horikawa’s latest offering evoked an energising, if destructive, potential for change: ‘With the rage I feel towards the current issues, I can relate to how the youth must have felt back then,’ he revealed via the show notes. ‘American hardcore was a grievous yet beautiful form of rebellion.’ 

Arming his cadets for the revolt, the designer embellished his selection of tough nylon and synthetic fabrics with flannel shirts and flyaway braces. Most ensembles kept one foot planted firmly in military chic with rolled fisherman knit beanies; sweaters brimming in pockets  and zips in a camouflage palette. Silhouettes were layers upon layers – from technical harnesses to shirts slung low around the waist – paired with cropped cargo pants and high-rise boot socks. Offsetting the khaki motif was a run of gold accents in the form of ball-bead chains, crucifixes, and even a golden grill.

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Post-show, the infectious energy was swept into the sweltering backstage, where designer Tatsuro Horikawa could just about be heard over the playful wrestling that took several models to the floor. Speaking over the impromptu fight club, Horikawa mused thoughtfully, ‘The theme is the current American political situation... But [politics] is something that affects the whole world, and we wanted to communicate that.’  And - judging by the show's fervent reception - the message came through loud and clear.