Milan: Men's Fashion Week kicks off with brand new calendar

The Milan Men's Fashion Week has been hit head-on by the fashion calendar revolution. The shows will kick off on Friday 13th and continue until Tuesday 17th January but, thanks to the new influx of mixed-gender events and the withdrawal of several labels, which preferred to give the runways a miss this season, the Milanese schedule has been totally refashioned.


Alessandro Sartori's return at Zegna is eagerly awaited on Friday. - ©Patrick Kovarik / AFP

Almost like last June, when it was already reduced to the bare bones, the fashion week dedicated to the menswear collections for Autumn/Winter 2017-18 was hit by no less than twelve pull-outs, though these have been at least partly compensated by the presence of ten new/returning labels.

Among them the Moschino men's collection, which has been absent from Milan for several seasons, and Frankie Morello, a label which recently changed hands and is looking to make a come-back on the fashion scene. Top of the list in terms of expectations is the return of Ermenegildo Zegna, which will kick off the proceedings on Friday evening with the first collection signed by new Creative Director Alessandro Sartori.

As for the other Italian menswear labels, Corneliani and Brioni are again notable for their absence, while also Canali, Pal Zileri and Boglioli will not be showing this season. Among those that didn't show last summer, only Antonio Marras and N°21 will be back on the runways, while Roberto Cavalli, Ermanno Scervino, Bottega Veneta and Calvin Klein will stay away again. The latter two have opted for a co-ed format, combining their men's and women's collections in one single show at the women's fashion weeks next February.

Calvin Klein will actually leave Milan for New York, while Bottega Veneta will remain in Milan, where Gucci too will stage a co-ed show next February, another major name saying good-bye to the men's fashion calendar. The same goes for Vivienne Westwood, which is leaving Milan, where until now it showed with menswear, to hold a mixed show in London. Saverio Moschillo's Rich will follow suit too, departing the men's week to show its men's and women's collections together in February.


Moschino's men's collection is back in Milan this week - © PixelFormula

Philipp Plein is instead upping sticks and moving to New York, where it will hold a co-ed show in February, though it will show in Milan with its brand-new sports line Plein Sport on Saturday. Jil Sander is giving this season a miss, and Ports 1969 has left Milan bound for London, but its departure will be compensated by the arrival of Cédric Charlier.

The latter has in fact abandoned Paris for Milan to premiere its men's collection, which will show together with the women's collection on 16th January. Also Dsquared2 has chosen to remain in Milan for the men's fashion week, where it will hold its very first mixed gender show on 15th January.

The 2017 Milan Men's Fashion Week will feature 35 shows altogether, the same number as last June, and will welcome several new entries. Besides Cédric Charlier and Plein Sport, the other newcomers are Billionaire, a luxury menswear label recently acquired by Philipp Plein; Italian designer Federico Curradi, who has notably worked for Iceberg and Peuterey; Malibu 1992, a jewellery label based in London and Milan which has diversified into apparel, its collection featuring an upmarket street style.

Also, Palm Angels, a label launched in September 2014 by Moncler's Creative Director Francesco Ragazzi, introducing a new, luxury take on cult items typical of the Los Angeles skateboarding scene, and Danish streetwear brand Wood Wood, whose presence is part of a deal struck with Milan trade show White.



Palm Angels debuted in Paris last June and will now show in Milan - © PixelFormula

Among the Milan Fashion Week highlights are also the maiden shows for several newly installed creative directors such as Lee Wood at Dirk Bikkembergs, Guillaume Meilland at Salvatore Ferragamo and Francesco Risso, who succeeded Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni.

Finally, on the week's last day, Tuesday 17th January, Giorgio Armani will host a collective show, just before his own, presenting three emerging talents: Moto Guo from Malaysia, Yoshio Kubo from Japan and Consistence, by creative duo Tien Lu and Fang Fang.
 

Translated by Nicola Mira

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