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Z Zegna returns to Pitti Uomo with skiwear-inspired collection
Z Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna's young line, has made a come-back to Florence's Pitti Uomo menswear show. The label’s new look features a style that is both subtly retro and forward-looking, blending Zegna's sartorial roots with an athleisure vibe ubiquitously present throughout the collection.
Z Zegna is back with a substantial presence within Pitti Uomo’s Fortezza da Basso venue, where the Italian luxury menswear group thrived before going on to show in Milan. The new collection offers an insight into the work of Alessandro Sartori, who returned to Zegna this season, having worked as creative director for Z Zegna itself before leaving for Berluti.
Sartori's scope has now broadened, extending to the supervision of all of Zegna's labels and lines, and across all creative functions. He attended Pitti Uomo 91 on Tuesday, while looking forward to his first Ermenegildo Zegna runway show scheduled next Friday for the opening of the Milan's Fashion Week, but was quiet about his work for Z Zegna.
He is supported for this line by Irish designer Murray Scallon, who has spent fifteen years with the group and was formerly in charge of Zegna Sport, the label which in 2014 was incorporated into Z Zegna.
Sartori's inspiration for the latest collection came from skiing and the Alpine world, especially the Bielmonte ski resort in Piedmont, where the Zegna family owns some hotels and where it organised a ski race in 1977.
This all translated into a sophisticated wardrobe inspired by a skiwear project initiated by Zegna in the 1970s, featuring balaclavas, mountain boots, trousers in tweed or with a sporty lateral band, heavy woollen gloves, ski sweaters, waterproof sports jackets, all of them in high tech, high performance fabrics such as Techmerino.
Z Zegna accounts for 15% of the group's sales and is sold chiefly in Asia, where it operates a few mono-brand stores, as well as in Europe and the USA. With the new collection, Z Zegna's price range has extended: alongside items in the €700 to €1,000 bracket, it now also features others retailing for between €1,000 and €2,000.
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