The last Parisian collections have been marked by a number of events in the fashion sphere, with the anticipated first collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman to take the artistic reins at the house of Dior.Another anticipated woman. Bouchra Jarrar taking back the artistic direction of the house of Lanvin, a post left open for more than a year after the departure of Alber Elbaz (who had officiated for 14 years). A first in the rooms of the town hall, with a new vocabulary and new silhouettes for the oldest French couture house. At Saint Laurent, the Belgian Anthony Vacarello, Hedi Slimane’s successor as artistic director, presented a sexy first collection, dominated by black and transparency. A challenge revealed and applauded by Pierre Bergé.Haider Ackermann, took over at Berluti following Alessandro Sartori. After many months of waiting, the new artistic director will present his first men’s collection for the label in January 2017.Peter Dundas leaves Roberto Cavalli’s artistic direction after only 3 collections. The Norwegian designer had modernized the glamour codes of the Italian label. The 2 young designers at Carven, Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud leave the house. They were responsible for the women’s collections from March 2015. Carven has recently spent time under the wing of luxury goods distributor Blue belle based in Hong Kong, “a new artistic direction will be named at a later date” says the French brand. Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, have spent one and a half years at Carven, revitalizing the label with a rejuvenated, contemporary wardrobe. It’s been over 20 years since Consuelo Castiglioni officiated at Marni, the label that she founded with her husband in 1994, since 2013 belongs to Renzo Rosso, owner of the OTB group. The designer announced his departure, leaving free reins to his successor, Francesco Risso. At Calvin Klein, new era : Raf Simons had been named the head of men’s and women’s lines on the 2nd August 2013. The Belgian designer will reveal his first collection for the American label next February at New York Fashion Week.At Tod’s, Alessandra Facchinetti, artistic director of women’s collection of the house for three years, presented her last one at autumn winter 2016-17 fashion week in Milan. Diego Della Valle, the president of Tod’s group announced the designer’s departure in a statement. For now, no replacement has yet been appointed to this position.The designer will have had the responsibility to create all of the Italian label’s first ready to wear collection originally specializing in shoe and leather goods.Once again the 2016 mercato has been effective Music free of right : Bandit & Nikit
Best of 2016 : An animated fashion mercato !
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