Paris: A season of assemblage and authenticity
It’s been an exceptionally busy menswear season in Paris, with multiple debuts, and more importantly, multiple influences – often within the same collection.
Godfrey Deeny 727 publications since 2017
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![]( "Paris: A season of assemblage and authenticity")
Paris: A season of assemblage and authenticity -
![]( "Celine: New wave, new order in Place de la Concorde")
Celine: New wave, new order in Place de la ConcordeCeline: New wave, new order in Place de la Concorde
Hedi Slimane climaxed the Paris menswear season with a powerful collection for Celine that opened up a new chapter in the designer’s cultural references – in this case, contemporary London.
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![]( "Dunhill: Flying the flag high for contemporary tailoring")
Dunhill: Flying the flag high for contemporary tailoringDunhill: Flying the flag high for contemporary tailoring
Great to see one brand still proudly flying the flag for British tailoring, as the shadow of Brexit approaches. Its name: Dunhill, which staged a stylish, self-assured and high-octane...
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![]( "Thom Browne: From bubble wrap to hyper-feminine deconstructed menswear")
Thom Browne: From bubble wrap to hyper-feminine deconstructed menswearThom Browne: From bubble wrap to hyper-feminine deconstructed menswear
Leave it to Thom Browne to stretch the definition of menswear and the limits of our imagination in a mightily deconstructed collection, which brightened up a dank and nervous Saturday in...
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![]( "A playful and cosmic Loewe menswear runway debut")
A playful and cosmic Loewe menswear runway debutA playful and cosmic Loewe menswear runway debut
In a season of multiple debuts, a first menswear show from Loewe, turned out to be a playful and cosmic collection that managed to include lots of highly commercial, attention-seeking...
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![]( "Dior Men: Kim Jones triumphs on the Champ de Mars")
Dior Men: Kim Jones triumphs on the Champ de MarsDior Men: Kim Jones triumphs on the Champ de Mars
There are moments when the stars seem to suddenly, and perfectly, line up for a designer, which is exactly what happened for Kim Jones on Friday in Paris with a thoroughly excellent show...
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![]( "New Guards owners searching for investors, LVMH rumored to be interested")
New Guards owners searching for investors, LVMH rumored to be interestedNew Guards owners searching for investors, LVMH rumored to be interested
New Guards Group, the DJ designer-driven Italian group that includes Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, is looking for an investor, according to sources in Milan.
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![]( "Berluti: Burnished tailoring at a stylish debut by Kris Van Assche")
Berluti: Burnished tailoring at a stylish debut by Kris Van AsscheBerluti: Burnished tailoring at a stylish debut by Kris Van Assche
A change of designer and a significant change in emphasis at Berluti, where Kris Van Assche presented his debut collection for the venerable French marque on a cold Friday in Paris.
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![]( "Paris: Avant tailoring makes a comeback, in an insurrectionary moment")
Paris: Avant tailoring makes a comeback, in an insurrectionary momentParis: Avant tailoring makes a comeback, in an insurrectionary moment
Some two weeks into the fashion season, designers who truly understand the concept of avant garde tailoring and a certain insurrectionary air, albeit with a hopeful tinge, dominated the...
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![]( "Ralph Toledano becomes partner on board of NEO Investments")
Ralph Toledano becomes partner on board of NEO InvestmentsRalph Toledano becomes partner on board of NEO Investments
The veteran fashion and luxury executive has become a partner in NEO Investments, the hard-charging private investment firm that owns significant stakes in a widening group of fashion and...
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![]( "Louis Vuitton: Michael Jackson in 50 shades of gray")
Louis Vuitton: Michael Jackson in 50 shades of grayLouis Vuitton: Michael Jackson in 50 shades of gray
The insistence of Virgil Abloh, red-hot menswear designer of Louis Vuitton, that he is not a designer has won him plaudits for self-effacement; but also, on the basis of this show, may...
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![]( "AMI: Alexandre Mattiussi's masculine couture ode to Paris")
AMI: Alexandre Mattiussi's masculine couture ode to ParisAMI: Alexandre Mattiussi's masculine couture ode to Paris
Just when you thought that the dark mood over Paris caused by 'yellow vest' protests would cast a shadow over the menswear season when along comes a brilliant celebration of the beauty...
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![]( "Valentino: From Undercover to Birkenstock in a great show")
Valentino: From Undercover to Birkenstock in a great showValentino: From Undercover to Birkenstock in a great show
Two collaborations – one with mass and the other with hyper advanced mode – were the key to the latest collection by the house of Valentino, presented with consummate skill on Wednesday...
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![]( "Chanel to show Cruise in its favorite French location: The Grand Palais")
Chanel to show Cruise in its favorite French location: The Grand PalaisChanel to show Cruise in its favorite French location: The Grand Palais
The house of Chanel will stage its next cruise collection in what has become its favorite location in France – The Grand Palais.
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![]( "JW Anderson: Paganism in a surrealist shrine")
JW Anderson: Paganism in a surrealist shrineJW Anderson: Paganism in a surrealist shrine
JW Anderson took us to a temple of surrealism this season and then promptly produced a pagan-like meditation on modern clothes.
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![]( "Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh: Hip-hop convention in Aspen")
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh: Hip-hop convention in AspenOff-White c/o Virgil Abloh: Hip-hop convention in Aspen
Down into the depths of the Carrousel du Louvre we descended to witness the latest collection of Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, currently the uncontested hottest designer in the world, late...
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![]( "Givenchy: Nineties Brit rebels meet posh Parisians")
Givenchy: Nineties Brit rebels meet posh ParisiansGivenchy: Nineties Brit rebels meet posh Parisians
It felt like the good old days at Givenchy, in the best sense of the term, at creative director Clare Waight Keller's presentation for her latest menswear offering, a tight collection of...
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![]( "Heron Preston: TSA travel party gear")
Heron Preston: TSA travel party gearHeron Preston: TSA travel party gear
In a French menswear fashion week full of debuts, Heron Preston kicked off the Paris season on Monday afternoon with a tremendous bang.
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![]( "Milan: Seven labels that advanced the menswear fashion vernacular")
Milan: Seven labels that advanced the menswear fashion vernacularMilan: Seven labels that advanced the menswear fashion vernacular
There was a great of talk in Milan about 'sprezzatura', Italian for relaxed and being at ease. A suggestion that the city and its fashion needs to lighten up a little to entice new...
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![]( "Fendi: Three sketches by Karl and abundant ideas")
Fendi: Three sketches by Karl and abundant ideasFendi: Three sketches by Karl and abundant ideas
The inspiration for the latest Fendi menswear show was the house’s own creative director Karl Lagerfeld, as “guest artist.”
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![]( "Emporio Armani: New materials for natty yetis")
Emporio Armani: New materials for natty yetisEmporio Armani: New materials for natty yetis
Giorgio Armani took Emporio back to nature this season in an unexpected and bold collection whose biggest revelation was the array of remarkable new materials.
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![]( "No. 21: A new Querelle for cool guys")
No. 21: A new Querelle for cool guysNo. 21: A new Querelle for cool guys
Staged inside a garage in north Milan on a crisp Monday morning, this is what Italy is all about when it is at its best - producing plausible and flattering menswear for young men who...
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![]( "Prada’s marvelous monster ball")
Prada’s marvelous monster ballPrada’s marvelous monster ball
That’s what they call a great fashion show. The latest stylistic statement by Miuccia Prada presented Sunday evening in a chilly Milan; a co-ed show that referenced everything from the...
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![]( "Versace’s new espionage style")
Versace’s new espionage styleVersace’s new espionage style
The invitation for the latest Versace show was suitably mysterious – a dossier marked "Confidential". Inside guests were invited to the first menswear show since Versace was sold to a...
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![]( "Dolce & Gabbana: Elegance without drama")
Dolce & Gabbana: Elegance without dramaDolce & Gabbana: Elegance without drama
The question everyone asked when entering the Dolce & Gabbana show this Saturday, was how many Chinese people would actually attend, given the cancellation and internet massacre the duo...
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![]( "Serapian: Turning a Pearl into a major success")
Serapian: Turning a Pearl into a major successSerapian: Turning a Pearl into a major success
One brand very much on the move at Pitti this week was Serapian, the Milanese leather goods specialist acquired by luxury giant Richemont in November 2017.
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![]( "Ermenegildo Zegna XXX: Upper class athleisure in the Stazione Centrale")
Ermenegildo Zegna XXX: Upper class athleisure in the Stazione CentraleErmenegildo Zegna XXX: Upper class athleisure in the Stazione Centrale
Half the audience attending the first show of the new Milan menswear season had arrived from Pitti at Stazione Centrale. And they returned to the station in the evening for the latest...
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![]( "Aldo Maria Camillo’s stunning sartorial signature debut")
Aldo Maria Camillo’s stunning sartorial signature debutAldo Maria Camillo’s stunning sartorial signature debut
Fashion designers, being ultimately artists, rarely have straight-line careers - one reason for the huge applause that greeted the culmination of the debut show of Aldo Maria Camillo in...
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![]( "Y/Project at Pitti: An anti-social media guest show")
Y/Project at Pitti: An anti-social media guest showY/Project at Pitti: An anti-social media guest show
If ever there was a fashion collection almost marred by its presentation it has to be the multi-democratic Y/Project show presented as a special guest at Pitti on Wednesday night.
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![]( "French Fédération adds 12 new brands to RTW season")
French Fédération adds 12 new brands to RTW seasonFrench Fédération adds 12 new brands to RTW season
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body, has accepted a dozen new brands to its next ready-to-wear season, an unusually high intake.