Elsewhere in couture: Classicism with many twists
Three Paris-based couturiers - Olivier Theyskens at Azzaro, Stéphane Rolland and Alexandre Vauthier - reminded how much life there is in the métier with inventive, classicism-with-a-twist...
Godfrey Deeny 1 915 publications since 2017
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![]( "Elsewhere in couture: Classicism with many twists")
Elsewhere in couture: Classicism with many twists -
![]( "Charlotte Casiraghi opens Chanel’s constructivist couture on horseback")
Charlotte Casiraghi opens Chanel’s constructivist couture on horsebackCharlotte Casiraghi opens Chanel’s constructivist couture on horseback
Just when people were talking about a couture season of intimate shows, along comes Virginie Viard, and artist Xavier Veilhan, with a mega ambitious metaphysical set and constructivist...
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![]( "Max Mara taking next cruise show to Lisbon")
Max Mara taking next cruise show to LisbonMax Mara taking next cruise show to Lisbon
Max Mara is taking its next resort show on the road again, as the Italian marque reveals plans to stage its next cruise collection in Lisbon, marking the latest foreign jaunt by the...
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![]( "Thierry Mugler, Couturissime: An unmissable retrospective in Paris")
Thierry Mugler, Couturissime: An unmissable retrospective in ParisThierry Mugler, Couturissime: An unmissable retrospective in Paris
Until April 24, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (MAD) of the Louvre is staging a major retrospective of the career and creativity of Thierry Mugler, who died on Sunday at the age of 73.
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![]( "Paris couture opens with Schiaparelli’s emotional surrealism")
Paris couture opens with Schiaparelli’s emotional surrealismParis couture opens with Schiaparelli’s emotional surrealism
Nothing ever quite compares to Paris haute couture, which opened Monday morning with a raw, emotional and surreally glamorous collection from the house of Schiaparelli by its couturier...
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![]( "Christian Dior’s creative community couture")
Christian Dior’s creative community coutureChristian Dior’s creative community couture
A collective display by Christian Dior on Monday, with a sober and somber collection of international couture, where the key message was less a singular designer’s vision than a...
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![]( "Sunday in Paris: Magnificent Alaïa, liberated Paco Rabanne")
Sunday in Paris: Magnificent Alaïa, liberated Paco RabanneSunday in Paris: Magnificent Alaïa, liberated Paco Rabanne
The Paris menswear season hadn’t quite ended, and the haute couture season has not begun. Nonetheless, the city witnessed two striking women’s ready-to-wear shows by Paco Rabanne and...
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![]( "Kenzo: Nigo debuts with flowers and finesse")
Kenzo: Nigo debuts with flowers and finesseKenzo: Nigo debuts with flowers and finesse
This Paris menswear season’s big debut was by Nigo at Kenzo on Sunday morning, and the Japanese cult designer’s first collection for the Japanese-born house was certainly made with...
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![]( "Paris Menswear Day Five: Loewe, Vuarnet and Hermès")
Paris Menswear Day Five: Loewe, Vuarnet and HermèsParis Menswear Day Five: Loewe, Vuarnet and Hermès
All about breaking boundaries this Saturday in Paris in the menswear season, between clothes and accessories at Loewe; weekend and work chez Hermès; mountains and club at Vuarnet.
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![]( "Paris haute couture starts Monday, with over a dozen live shows, pandemic or not")
Paris haute couture starts Monday, with over a dozen live shows, pandemic or notParis haute couture starts Monday, with over a dozen live shows, pandemic or not
Paris haute couture, the pinnacle of fashion, begins its next four-day runway season on Monday morning, and despite the pandemic, there will be no shortage of live shows.
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![]( "Paris Menswear Day Four: Jil Sander, Paul Smith, Isabel Marant and Jeanerica")
Paris Menswear Day Four: Jil Sander, Paul Smith, Isabel Marant and JeanericaParis Menswear Day Four: Jil Sander, Paul Smith, Isabel Marant and Jeanerica
Friday in Paris Menswear was a tour of the city from an evangelical cathedral, cut-stone mansion, Marais showroom and Place des Victoires townhouse. We caught up with Jil Sander, Paul...
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![]( "Dior Men: Couture-gardener cool for 75th anniversary year")
Dior Men: Couture-gardener cool for 75th anniversary yearDior Men: Couture-gardener cool for 75th anniversary year
Kim Jones celebrated the 75th anniversary of the New Look with a sensational menswear collection, and a beautifully staged show for the house of Dior, winning him a standing ovation...
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![]( "Paris Menswear Day Three: Rains, Rick Owens and Uniforme")
Paris Menswear Day Three: Rains, Rick Owens and UniformeParis Menswear Day Three: Rains, Rick Owens and Uniforme
Scandi fashion, which has been all the rage this past decade, finally made it onto a Paris runway Thursday lunchtime, doing so with a power puffer, super-hero show by Rains. Elsewhere, we...
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![]( "Macron heralds opening of Chanel’s 19M as a cultural revolution")
Macron heralds opening of Chanel’s 19M as a cultural revolutionMacron heralds opening of Chanel’s 19M as a cultural revolution
President Emmanuel Macron celebrated the opening of 19M, Chanel’s new center of couture and fashion skills, carefully praising it as an expression of a cultural revolution in France.
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![]( "Louis Vuitton: In every Dreamhouse a heartache at Virgil Abloh final show")
Louis Vuitton: In every Dreamhouse a heartache at Virgil Abloh final showLouis Vuitton: In every Dreamhouse a heartache at Virgil Abloh final show
They bid farewell to Virgil Abloh on a Louis Vuitton catwalk Thursday in Paris, where his studio team took an extended bow at the finale of a show built around a Mayan blue "Dreamhouse".
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![]( "Paris Menswear Day Two: Bianca Saunders, Hed Mayner, AMI and Acne Studios")
Paris Menswear Day Two: Bianca Saunders, Hed Mayner, AMI and Acne StudiosParis Menswear Day Two: Bianca Saunders, Hed Mayner, AMI and Acne Studios
All the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players. And in few endeavors is that truer than in fashion, especially on Wednesday in Paris Fashion Week Men's.
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![]( "André Leon Talley dead at 73")
André Leon Talley dead at 73André Leon Talley dead at 73
André Leon Talley, the path-breaking American fashion editor has died at 73, His death was confirmed by TAA PR, the public relations agency. The cause of his death has still not been...
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![]( "Paris menswear opens with Lukhanyo Mdingi, Bluemarble and Egonlab")
Paris menswear opens with Lukhanyo Mdingi, Bluemarble and EgonlabParis menswear opens with Lukhanyo Mdingi, Bluemarble and Egonlab
Paris menswear season – showing clothes for winter 2022 - opened Tuesday with an impressive trio of collections from three very disparate young designers, underlining the city's ability...
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![]( "Lagerfeld names menswear ambassador Sebastien Jondeau as product consultant")
Lagerfeld names menswear ambassador Sebastien Jondeau as product consultantLagerfeld names menswear ambassador Sebastien Jondeau as product consultant
The house of Karl Lagerfeld has appointed Sebastien Jondeau, the late designer’s former personal assistant, close-buddy-confidant and occasional model, as a product consultant.
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![]( "Last day at Milan Menswear: JW Anderson, K-Way, 44 Label Group and Jet Set")
Last day at Milan Menswear: JW Anderson, K-Way, 44 Label Group and Jet SetLast day at Milan Menswear: JW Anderson, K-Way, 44 Label Group and Jet Set
One can never fault the Milanese for lacking energy. Italy might be engulfed in a political sudden crisis in Rome. But Milan still made an impressive fist of its four-day menswear season...
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![]( "Milan Menswear Presentations: Brioni, Tod’s, Aspesi, Andrea Incontri, Massimo Alba, Dhruv Kapoor and Almini")
Milan Menswear Presentations: Brioni, Tod’s, Aspesi, Andrea Incontri, Massimo Alba, Dhruv Kapoor and AlminiMilan Menswear Presentations: Brioni, Tod’s, Aspesi, Andrea Incontri, Massimo Alba, Dhruv Kapoor and Almini
This weekend in Milano Moda Uomo, ending Monday, was a season of new designers and venerable insider's labels making important statements, as creative minds profited from the lockdown to...
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![]( "Prada: Stasi chic on Hollywood hipsters")
Prada: Stasi chic on Hollywood hipstersPrada: Stasi chic on Hollywood hipsters
A welcome return to ruddy health at Prada, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons unveiled their best menswear collection to date, worn by the city’s best cast, on a sunny Sunday in Milan.
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![]( "Etro: The apparel and the ecstasy")
Etro: The apparel and the ecstasyEtro: The apparel and the ecstasy
Nothing like a new management to liberate a venerable brand and unleash the potential of a talented designer. Which was very much the case on Sunday, when Kean Etro staged one of his...
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![]( "Dolce & Gabbana: Moda alla Machine Gun Kelly")
Dolce & Gabbana: Moda alla Machine Gun KellyDolce & Gabbana: Moda alla Machine Gun Kelly
Right when you were thinking one could drown in all the laudable sustainable menswear on display in Milan, along comes Dolce & Gabbana to wake the whole city up with some moda alla...
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![]( "Milan Fashion Week: DSquared2 dreams of Deep North dandies")
Milan Fashion Week: DSquared2 dreams of Deep North dandiesMilan Fashion Week: DSquared2 dreams of Deep North dandies
The brothers Caten returned to their Canadian roots this season with a DSquared2 collection ideal for Deep North dandies and hipster trappers presented Friday, the opening day of the...
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![]( "Burberry appoints Isabel Moessinger, as Dior reorders communications team")
Burberry appoints Isabel Moessinger, as Dior reorders communications teamBurberry appoints Isabel Moessinger, as Dior reorders communications team
Burberry has appointed Isabel Moessinger to be its new VP of PR and Events. Moessinger joins Burberry from Christian Dior, where she was completed a seven-year stint at the famed Paris...
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![]( "Zegna’s modular mode kicks off Milan menswear")
Zegna’s modular mode kicks off Milan menswearZegna’s modular mode kicks off Milan menswear
"We only knit what we know,” explained Alessandro Sartori as he presented his new modular mode collection for the house of Zegna, to kick of this weekend's Milan menswear season.
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![]( "Borsalino rebounds with funky designs and fresh strategy")
Borsalino rebounds with funky designs and fresh strategyBorsalino rebounds with funky designs and fresh strategy
Borsalino, a magical name, hasn’t had the most magical time of late, with a pandemic-induced factory closure and a tough global market, but with an art-inspired collection its new...
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![]( "Victoria Beckham: Palm Beach polish and panache in A/W 2022 pre-collection")
Victoria Beckham: Palm Beach polish and panache in A/W 2022 pre-collectionVictoria Beckham: Palm Beach polish and panache in A/W 2022 pre-collection
“I’m so sick of people wanting to dress in a comfortable way. I want to make an occasion out of dressing,” insists Victoria Beckham, who revealed her fall winter pre-collection 2022 on...
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![]( "Pitti 101: Latimmier live in a Pucci family palazzo")
Pitti 101: Latimmier live in a Pucci family palazzoPitti 101: Latimmier live in a Pucci family palazzo
Finally, a proper actual live runway show of re-defined masculine menswear in Pitti, staged late Wednesday inside a Pucci family Palazzo in Florence, courtesy of gender-bender designer...