Alaïa names Pieter Mulier, Raf Simons' former right-hand man, to be its creative director

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Feb 5, 2021

The house of Alaïa has chosen Pieter Mulier, the former longstanding right-hand man of Raf Simons, to be its creative director, taking on one of the most prestigious positions in international fashion.

Mulier takes up his new position on Monday, Feb. 8, becoming the first designer to succeed Azzedine Alaïa since his passing in November 2017.

A student of architecture, Mulier is one of the most experienced designers in the industry, who has worked for major houses in Milan, Paris and New York – Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein.

“It is an absolute dream to join this prestigious Maison, its beautiful ateliers and its talented team. Always ahead of his time and open to all arts and cultures, Azzedine Alaïa’s powerful vision has served as an inspiration, as he always sought to give the necessary time to innovative and enduring creation. It is with this tremendous sense of admiration and responsibility that I will seek to carry forward his legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation. I look forward to meeting the valued Alaïa clients and friends as well as the Alaïa Foundation, and to jointly shaping the future of this legendary Maison,” said Mulier.

Mulier’s debut collection for Alaïa will be Spring/ Summer 2022, which is traditionally presented in the fall. However, given Azzedine Alaïa’s habit of presenting outside of any official runway calendar, the house said it had still not decided when Mulier will hold his first show, or presentation.

“It is my great pleasure to welcome Pieter into the Alaïa Maison. Through the creative prodigy and tenacious dedication of our dear founder Azzedine Alaïa, our Maison has been defined by a powerful vision of femininity and sensuality, which will forever set us apart. Pieter stands out with remarkable technical talent and devotion to the craft, a sharp eye for construction and a sense of timeless beauty that is deeply ingrained in the creative approach of our Maison. He combines these qualities with keen intellect, true generosity and unwavering humanity, which fills me with the greatest confidence in his creative leadership and innovative powers. His appointment marks the opening of an important new chapter for our Maison as we jointly seek to carry the foundational values and distinctive style of Alaïa into the future,” said CEO Myriam Serrano.

Mulier began his career with Raf Simons some two decades ago, as first assistant and later senior head designer of Simons' independent fashion label.  Mulier then joined his fellow Belgian when he was hired to design Jil Sander in Milan, where Mulier continues to work today, according to his own page on Linkedin.

In the spring of 2012, he followed Simons to Dior, where he became design director for haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories. By August 2016, Mulier had moved to New York, working on womenswear, menswear and accessories for Calvin Klein for just over two years before Simons parted ways with the American house.

Known for his sense of discretion and excellent manners, Mulier speaks both French and English fluently, useful tools at the atelier of the house of Alaïa, as the Tunisian-born designer spoke rudimentary English.

Mulier is based in Antwerp, but will take an apartment in Paris and will be fully dedicated to Alaïa, one of the most storied modern fashion houses in Paris. He has no independent label of his own.

The house of Alaïa is owned by the giant Swiss-based luxury group Richemont, which also controls Chloé and Dunhill and finances Alber Elbaz’s new fashion house AZ Factory which launched this January in Paris.