Oct 6, 2010
Antiquity to YSL: the Paris Fashion Week A to Z
Oct 6, 2010
YSL S/S 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
ANTIQUITY: Flat sandals and draped silk toga dresses spirited Lanvin to antique Rome, Issey Miyake also had knitted toga dresses and Alexander McQueen a majestic, simple dress in pleated white with a gold belt under the chest.
BIRTHDAYS: Kenzo rang in its 40th birthday with a magical circus show, and VIPs donned masks at a society ball to blow out 90 candles for French Vogue.
ECO-MINDED: Dresses were adorned with wheat and pheasant feathers at McQueen, Vivienne Westwood had a "buy less, buy better" mantra and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac quoted the caring-for-the-planet message of the "Little Prince".
FISH-NET TIGHTS: Seen at Emanuel Ungaro and Alexis Mabille and out of context at Jean Paul Gaultier -- as a bustier over a white blouse or above the designer's trademark powder-pink corset.
GLASSES: There were lollipop-coloured, 1950s pin-up shades at Christan Dior, space-age visors at Pierre Cardin, and a whole top pieced together from retro sunglasses at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
HEMLINES: Right on the knee for skirts, like at Valentino or Celine, sometimes lower at mid-calf or ankle length. Evening gowns swished and swept the floor.
IVORY: Designer after designer opened their shows with white.
KARLIE KLOSS: Sexy sailor for Dior, big-haired at a 1970s Sonia Rykiel or in 3-D prints at Gaultier, the US model headlined some of the week's most sought-after shows.
MINI-SHORTS: Sparkly silver under floaty see-through tops and petticoats, in knitted stripes or paired with sharp tailored jackets, mini-shorts were a big theme -- and nowhere more risque than at Chanel.
NINETEEN-TWENTIES: Gypsy shawls, feathers, fish-net, fur collars, crystal earrings and slicked back hair: the 1920s were in the air from John Galliano to Ungaro.
ORANGE: From Yves Saint Laurent to Kenzo, Lanvin or Dries Van Noten, paired with pink or on its own, orange was the colour of the season.
OSTRICH FEATHERS: Adorned a giant red-and-black headdress, puffed out jackets, spiced up hemlines -- or clothed a model head to toe at Chanel, in a coral dress that swept caressingly around the legs.
PLEATS: Swishing and dramatic at Lanvin, in an ivory dress at Chanel, at Jean Paul Gaultier, or in a clever dress that bounced up and down at the master of pleats Issey Mikaye.
ROCK AND ROLL: A punky, rocker's spirit shook up the runways at Balenciaga and Balmain while Yohji Yamamoto paid tribute to Jimi Hendrix and Gaultier invited Gossip frontwoman Beth Ditto to open his show.
SHIRTS: Dutch duo Viktor and Rolf took a city shirt as the start point for their whole, playful collection, while mannish shirts set the tone at Dries Van Noten.
VETERAN MODELS: Chanel, Emanuel Ungaro, Balenciaga, Galliano: designers made space on the runways for veteran models, plus-sizes or street-casted unknowns, alongside waif-like regulars.
WINGS: An orange dress was entirely made from butterflies at McQueen, while Giles Deacon at Ungaro had giant flower-covered butterflies propped atop a garden-party decor.
XMAS: Economic hard times may soon be behind us, but gifts and freebies -- usually a Fashion Week staple -- were in short supply, at best a make-up kit at Chanel, or a fancy tea-saucer at Shiatzy Chen.
YSL S/S 2011 collection at Paris Fashion Week
YVES SAINT LAURENT: Fashionistas saw tributes to the master everywhere -- from jumpsuits to reworked tuxedos at Felipe Oliveira Baptista or Chloe, where deep blue and emerald stripes also conjured Saint Laurent's Moroccan period.
By Emma Charlton
Copyright © 2022 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.