Cédric Charlier and Aeffe part ways

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Nicola Mira

Published
Feb 26, 2020

Aeffe and Cédric Charlier have ended their partnership.

“The contract has reached its natural term and we have mutually agreed not to renew it," explained Massimo Ferretti, executive president of Italian fashion group Aeffe (owner of Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Philosophy and Pollini) to FashionNetwork.com about the separation from the Belgian designer.

 
The licence agreement for the production and worldwide distribution of Cédric Charlier's women’s ready-to-wear line had been signed in 2012, when the label was launched. In 2017, Cédric Charlier introduced also a menswear line, which was later discontinued. The label is distributed via about 150 leading multibrand retailers worldwide, notably in the USA, its main market, followed by Europe and Asia.
 
After showing for a time in Milan, in September 2018 Cédric Charlier went back to showing in Paris, where its headquarters have always been located. The label however isn’t taking part in the current Paris Fashion Week. For the time being, the label is unwilling to make a statement about its future projects.

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Aeffe was founded in 1980. Over the years, it has held an extensive portfolio of licences, including Cacharel, Jean Paul Gaultier and Ungaro. The group now manages under licence the line by Jeremy Scott, the talented US designer and creative director of Aeffe's leading label, Moschino. Sales for Aeffe's licensing business lost 10.2% at constant exchange rates in 2019, down to €8.6 million. There isn’t any new deal on the horizon for Aeffe, which however said it is open to fresh opportunities.
 
After graduating at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels in Brussels, Charlier worked for two years at Céline in Paris, under the creative leadership of Michael Kors. He then joined the atelier of Jean Paul Knott for two years. He did a six-year stint under Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, before working as the creative director of Cacharel between 2009 and 2011, and launching his own label in 2012.