Céline: Phoebe Philo still sets the agenda

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Oct 1, 2017

In fashion, it’s all about agenda setting. And few people set the agenda more than Phoebe Philo, whose latest sumptuous collection for the house of Céline will be admired and envied by many of her colleagues.

From the beginning, what one had to love was the silhouette which managed to be grand yet always feminine. And Philo juxtaposed that with a marvelous new set courtesy of show producers OBO. Staged in the traditional location of Céline shows – the Tennis Club de Boulogne – in which was installed a giant floating tent made of racing yacht sails. The audience almost crammed in, practically able to touch guests on the other side of the runway.
 
The opening look: a wonderful tent like white cape with flaps – echoing the environment - that enveloped a model in a perfectly cut khaki lapel free, linen suit. An unknown model with shorn hair, just like the new haircut of Philo who greeted friends backstage post-show but declined to talk. The backstage was crammed with brilliant product – multi-stripe leather totes, bold snakeskin shoes finished with tassels and cool little leather bucket bags. One sensed that Philo edits her collection right up until the last minute. The exact opposite of See Now, Buy Now.

When on form, Philo cuts magnificently like the oversize mannish jacket that almost morphed into a pleated skirt for a thoroughly new look. Or the cool floor-length Moorish capes finished with piping, or the remarkable combinations of lace blouses and billowing dhotis. Add in a dash of glamour – the silky leather dressing gown meets trench coat with blue floral trim and large pearl decorations or the striped leather capes that matched several handbags - and one had an excellent collection. And one sure to influence designers from runway to high street.
 
On the seats, skimpy nylon padding or images of pizzas or naked boobs. One expects the unexpected at Céline and one got it again this season.