×
106 027
Fashion Jobs
ALL SAINTS
Senior CRM Executive
Permanent · New York
TJ MAXX
District Loss Prevention Manager - Tustin, ca
Permanent · Tustin
MARSHALLS
Loss Prevention Detective - Boston
Permanent · Boston
TJ MAXX
tj Maxx lp Detective
Permanent · Castro Valley
HOMEGOODS
Loss Prevention Detective
Permanent · Champaign
TJ MAXX
tj Maxx lp Detective
Permanent · Cupertino
HOMEGOODS
Loss Prevention Customer Service Associate Full Time Now Hiring
Permanent · Portland
TJ MAXX
Loss Prevention Detective Cambridge, ma
Permanent · Cambridge
TJX COMPANIES
Distribution Center Loss Prevention Investigator
Permanent · Pittston
TJ MAXX
Loss Prevention Detective
Permanent · Paramus
HOMEGOODS
Loss Prevention Detective Full Time Now Hiring
Permanent · Beaverton
RAG & BONE
Sales Supervisor (Full -Time) - Christopher st
Permanent · New York
CENTRIC BRANDS
Supply Chain Operations Analyst
Permanent · Greensboro
CENTRIC BRANDS
Social Compliance Associate
Permanent · Greensboro
CENTRIC BRANDS
Vice President, Operations
Permanent · New York
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Retail Operations Manager
Permanent · Wethersfield
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Retail Sales Manager
Permanent · Pittsburgh
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Retail Operations Manager
Permanent · Bend
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - Harbour Center Rack
Permanent · Annapolis
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - East Palo Alto Rack
Permanent · East Palo Alto
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Villagio Retail Center Rack
Permanent · Fresno
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - East Palo Alto Rack
Permanent · East Palo Alto
Advertisements
Published
Sep 29, 2021
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Charles de Vilmorin debuts at Rochas with juxtaposed mode

Published
Sep 29, 2021


Rochas - Spring/ Summer 2022 - Paris - Photo: Rochas - Photo: Rochas

Paris’ big debut this season was Charles de Vilmorin at Rochas, the current enfant terrible of French fashion, who made his Wednesday lunchtime debut with a strikingly new fashion statement, where each ensemble seemed radically juxtaposed.

Everyone who mattered in fashion showed up, from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Anna Wintour. All crowded into three gilded rooms inside the Hotel Mona Bismarck, located on a heavily trafficked stretch of the Seine, opposite the Eiffel Tower. Outside, the hundreds of street photographers and fans almost spilled into the traffic.

It helps that Charles comes from French creative royalty – his grand aunt was Louise de Vilmorin, a famed lady of letters and companion of André Malraux, the world’s first minister of culture.
 
And there is something about historic France in de Vilmorin’s mode - gothic castles, dark surrealism, Jean Cocteau movies and high-end ‘60s psychedelic. Miles Davis meets Saint Laurent – Charles is his doppleganger - on acid. 
 
De Vilmorin is an innately gifted artist and illustrator, evident again from his invitation – a curvaceous series of detailed pen strokes showing a piano, stool and wild flowers. Even more so in the brilliant way he made the location his own – over-painting all the ground floor windows of the mansion with his sketches of funky voluptuous Amazons.
 
There was plenty to admire in this debut runway collection. His previous collections for his eponymous label were all shows in presentations and videos. 

At Rochas, he opened with a cutaway shoulder leather military shirt worn over tinsel plissé skirt and golden pirate boots; and then a medieval, laced-up leather dress worn over a white smock shirt and anchored by bio-morphist red and yellow boots. 
 
The roots of his ideas are certainly grand, but the result are very groovy. Though quintessentially French, if he reminds one of anyone it is probably Vivienne Westwood.
 
De Vilmorin’s big trick was attaching stiff tulle along multiple sleeves, shoulders and trims, almost like fish fins. It added an otherworldly element to metallic rouched cocktails; form-fitting tops or maids in plissé dresses.
 
Though the most beautiful looks were his white poplin tents dresses and mannish shirts – in a partly co-ed show – finished with his phantasmagoric sketches.
 
Working with stylist Camille Bideau Waddington added in touch of funky glamour. Which was needed, as if the collection had any obvious fault it was that it looked too much his previous ideas for his own house.
 
But de Vilmorin is young, still in his mid 20s, and has plenty of ideas in his mind. Expect his career to soar – he is that good.
 
 

Copyright © 2021 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.