Cheers for Pilati's swansong at Yves Saint Laurent

PARIS - Italian designer Stefano Pilati earned a standing ovation on Monday night as he sent out his swansong collection for Yves Saint Laurent before a star-studded gathering at Paris Fashion Week.

Stefano Pilato received a standing ovation at his last fashion show for Yves Saint Laurent. Photo : PixelFormula.

French actresses Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Huppert were joined front row by the US pop star Katy Perry -- sporting bright blue hair -- the soul singer Alicia Keys and the actress Rosario Dawson, in cheering the collection.

Pilati's final autumn-winter look for YSL, which announced his departure last week, played heavily on blacks, with strong-shouldered jackets, pants with leather highlights, and bare-backed dresses in a fine metallic chain-mail.

"I hope it's sublime," whispered a fashion writer, as the sound of heels striking a parquet floor marked the start of the show, the house initials in copper lettering at the end of the runway.

The first model arrived in a leather-lined black coat, above short pants and dizzying heels. Followed a black bolero over high-waisted pants. Several leather tunics, in strong green or red, had a touch of mink at the shoulder.

Shoulders stood out on trouser suits with a bowed flower motif, in white or violet on black.

Chain mail dresses were cut on the knee, sleeveless in silvery pink with green collar and hem, or entirely green with simple straps crossed at the back.

With slicked chignons and deep red gloss lipstick, other models stepped out in metallic dresses with deep plunging V-necks, one pink with violet edging, and short sleeves.

Long gowns in black or white were slit high on the leg, at the back or side, or at the front up to the knee.

Dressed in a light-coloured suit, the designer gave a brief bow at show's end, raising one hand in a "V" for victory, signing off after an adventure with the house that began in 2004.

Yves Saint Laurent has not yet named his successor, saying it will disclose the name of its new creative director in the coming weeks.

Industry sources told AFP late last month that Hedi Slimane, a former designer for Dior Homme whose admirers include rock stars and his fashion trade peers, would take over at Saint Laurent.

Slimane, who also worked at YSL in the late 1990s as head of menswear, would be returning to the fashion industry after several years away.