Denim trends for Spring/Summer 2019 on show at Denim Première Vision
The mission of the Denim Première Vision trade show is to present the denim industry's latest innovations to retail groups, established labels and emerging designers. For its twentieth edition on 14th-15th November at Paris' Event Center, the show adopted a new approach for the presentation of the Spring/Summer 2019 trends, to capture the attention of the latest generation of fashion creatives.
The organisers asked eight designers to exploit the expertise of some of the show's exhibitors to offer their own take on the trends envisaged. Each designer created two silhouettes, inspired by the season's trend book which was produced by the team led by Marion Forêt, fashion product manager at Première Vision.
French designers Savoar Fer went wild on pleats, working also on asymmetry and maxi volumes, in collaboration with exhibitors Toray, KMS and YKK. Knorts, the label by Eleanore Guthrie, worked with Kassim, Era Garment and KMS to design its fisherman's trousers. The use of jacquard with knitted denim fabric created a unique tactile effect, as well as a sensation of comfort.
Berlin label Fade Out joined forces with Soory, Desert Studio, Akkus Tekstil and Polsan Button to develop items showcasing its expertise in assembling swathes of denim fabric for its creations. One of them, a pair of dungarees, featured different colour gradations and wash effects. In the other, the label went for a sporty look, emphasising lightness by using a mix of fabrics in violet hues and a mesh appliqué on the sleeves.
It was a clear example of how international denim specialists can contribute to fashion design, a contribution which was further developed and refined in the show’s Trends section, which introduced a series of exhibitor creations inspired by the ten trend themes identified.
Among the key elements noted, the fact that laser effects have almost completely disappeared from the denim specialists' output. "Laser wash processing is still in use, said Marion Forêt, but we are seeing a decrease in the number of laser designs, while jacquard has taken the upper hand, notably with flowery motifs. This gives products a clear added value. There has been significant investment on jacquard machines, producing interesting solutions in terms of quality and price," explained Forêt.
Among the season's other key features, colours will be ubiquitous (notably via the use of jacquard), there will again be a focus on embroidery, though more discreet than in previous seasons, on holographic effects, on very soft metal and rhinestone effects, and a widespread presence of zips and laces. In terms of fabrics, a lot of effort was put on understated volume effects, with ripples, uneven surfaces, pleats and placed colours, as well as an abundance of checks, both of the discreet and the outspoken variety.
"Wash effects add a more imaginative touch," said Marion Forêt. "Compared to previous seasons, the work on off-white and ecru hues has evolved, and now it features strategically positioned, very subtle bleaching."
In terms of shapes and fits, cigarette jeans are starting to predominate, as does the emphasis on asymmetry and significant lengths, producing plays on lapels and ample cuts. "The clothes move away from the body, creating more slender silhouettes," said Marion Forêt. Among the other main trends, a greater presence of frilly paper-bag waists, and also of 'peasant-style' skirts and petticoats.
There was also more than a nod to tech wear, both referencing outdoor apparel, with water-proof or waxed products, sometimes using collagen, and light fabrics, for example sophisticated devoré denim.
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