×
60 040
Fashion Jobs
SALLY BEAUTY CORPORATE
Outside Sales Representative -Cosmoprof
Permanent · New York
GAP INC.
Asset Protection Coordinator - la West
Permanent · Los Angeles
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH STORES
Abercrombie & Fitch - Manager in Training, Clinton Crossing Premium Outlet
Permanent · Clinton
GILLY HICKS STORES
Gilly Hicks - Manager in Training, Natick
Permanent · Natick
AESOP
Full Time Retail Consultant | Aesop nw 23rd
Permanent · Portland
CORPORATE
Senior Legal Counsel
Permanent · Irving
NEIMAN MARCUS
sr. Restaurant General Manager, $1,000 Sign-on Bonus - Bal Harbour
Permanent · Bal Harbour
NEIMAN MARCUS
Group Sales Manager - Palo Alto
Permanent · Palo Alto
TALENT
District Manager, Madewell
Permanent · Atlanta
COTY
Commercial Finance Analyst, fp&a
Permanent · Miami
JCPENNEY CAREERS 2018
Merchandise Planner - Women's Apparel
Permanent · Plano
MARC JACOB'S
Sales Supervisor
Permanent · Los Angeles
MARC JACOB'S
Sales Supervisor
Permanent · Chandler
ESTEE LAUDER
Director, Global Marketing Skincare
Permanent · New York
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection Agent - Canyon Springs Rack (Riverside, ca)
Permanent · Riverside
PUMA
Junior Manager, Marketing - Ecomm (CRM/Sms)
Permanent · Somerville
CENTRIC BRANDS
Manager, Sales Operations
Permanent · New York
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations | Southport, Chicago
Permanent · Chicago
DISTRIBUTION CENTERS
Studio Coordinator
Permanent · Dallas
OLD NAVY
District Manager - Kansas City
Permanent · San Francisco
OLD NAVY
District Manager - Kansas City
Permanent · Kansas City
OLD NAVY
General Manager - Shoppes at Gilbert
Permanent · Gilbert
Published
Mar 1, 2022
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Dior: Next Era, New Look

Published
Mar 1, 2022

A unlikely yet dramatically exuberant collection from Dior this season where Maria Grazia Chiuri blended novel garment technology and a fresh vision of women by great Renaissance master painters.


 


 
Maintaining a Dior tradition, the setting was pretty awesome. A series of some 200 faux paintings by Mariella Bettineschi, a giant art work entitled Next Era, or Era Successiva in Italian, custom-made for Dior, with black and white versions of great portraits of women.
 
Covering the entire show-space, a tent built inside the Tuileries Gardens. Ironically steps away from the Louvre painting galleries. For the largest audience at a fashion show since the pandemic first bit.

Inspired by galleries of paintings that emerged in Western Europe from the 15th century onwards. Where kings, queens and great art patrons would display paintings from the top to bottom of their walls and salons.
 
Images by great masters – including Leonardo, Manet, Botticelli and Goya - all of women: queens, infantas, duchesses; courtesans and odalisques. The only queen missing on the wall was the pregnant Rihanna, who arrived 40 minutes late in all-black spike heel boots; underwear and see-through negligee, all the better to expose her now significant bump. 
 
Bettineschi doubled many portrait subject’s eyes in an invitation to look again at women in art history, and artists’ views of women. Which is what Grazia did too - reinterpreting Dior’s historical codes and designs with a modern twist.
 
Her first choice, the bar jacket, not seen as embodiment of femininity, but more as an expression of power. Welcome to a new technological bar jacket, since Dior teamed up with D-Air Lab to create a new hi-tech bodysuit, criss-crossed by air bags, and finished with light and heat insulation. The original hip stuffing for the classic bar was reportedly acquired in a local hardwear store by Pierre Cardin, Dior’s assistant. The 2022 version has leather on the outside like protective padding.
 
Around a dozen experimental pieces, including techy corsets; biker’s back protection and chunky shoulder pads; some to be sold, others for future exhibitions. And, since D-Air Lab is a division of a motorbike jacket maker, lots of biker gear – especially elbow-long protective gloves even worn with evening gowns.
 
The Italian couturier also focused on the famed Roger Vivier pump for Dior, the only case in the brand’s history where another designer had his name on a Dior label. Grazia reimagined Vivier’s footwear as sporty pumps and biker boots, many finished with Lily of the Valley, Christian’s signature flower.
 
Monsieur Dior was also in Maria Grazia’s thoughts as she riffed on an embroidered silk wall that once stood in Christian’s apartment in the 16th arrondissement. An image entitled Jardin d'Hiver, which formed the basis of the pattern she used in the latest edition of her fabric totes for Dior, the world’s most successful designer bag of the past half-decade.
 
Much of her process informed by reading her Italian predecessor Gianfranco Ferré’s writings where he reflected on his own transformation from a ready-to-wear designer in Italy, at the height of a huge explosion of design and creativity in the '70s and '80s. Before coming to Dior in the '90s and discovering the even more rarefied world of couture.
 
“You know, I think the time has come to remember that people need to start reading a lot more; and think and reflect. It's really is not just enough to stick an emoji on social media anymore,” concluded Grazia.
 
 
 

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.