Elie Saab down Mexico way

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 22, 2020

With Latin singer Leo Danʼs Te He Prometido coming out of the speakers, the message was clear this season at Elie Saab, the designer was going down Mexico way.

 
Saab riffed on Mexico incessantly, though with oodles of opulent grace. There was nothing remotely mean streets about this collection – it was anti-Narcos mode. Instead, Saabʼs muse was a mythical lady, clutching in her hand an invitation to a week-end in Chapultepec castle in Mexico. A guest, in her dreams, of fine art intertwining with 19th century style at the court of Imperial Mexico when under French control.
 
“Imperial Mexican”, smiled Saab post-show after a presenting a series of lavish gold and ivory gowns. Made with puff shoulders and enormous trains, and finished with golden beaded embroidery. All ideal for a wedding or even a coronation ball. 
 
Staged inside the Galerie Courbe, the soaring curved side salon of the Grand Palais, whose rough brick walls were juxtaposed with the grandeur of the clothes. Saab is also the greatest master in Paris when it comes to composing in faille, the thick silk fabric with a lustrous shine. Made in turquoise, coral, mint and pink, dresses were cut for a screen goddess or a stunning mother of the bride. Making for a great middle section in this show.
 
The audience raised a tremendous burst of applause for his silvery princess bride, with giant train and even bigger mantilla. The Mexican mode at a max this season.