From Vaquera's American dream to Pressiat's Marilyn Monroes in Paris
During its second consecutive participation in Paris Fashion Week, the New York-based label Vaquera returned to its roots. The brand, launched by Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee in 2013, paid tribute to its signature style, which has become very recognizable, as well as its American heritage. Among the somewhat subtle nods to American culture and tradition, an iconic look stood out: a low-cut, asymmetrical, long-tailed dress, constructed from scraps of American flags, turning the red-and-white stripes and 50 stars against a blue background into an avant-garde reinterpretation of the classic print.
As is customary for the brand supported by Dover Street Market, the models paraded to the sound of loud electronic music, as if it were a rave in the 3537 space located in Paris' rue des Francs Bourgeois. At a fast and determined pace, the models wore more marketable garments, such as acid-washed jeans, yellow skirts, and a variety of knitwear; as well as much more daring designs faithful to the subversive character of the 2017 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist
The show closed the first day of Paris fashion week on Monday, September 26. It featured irreverent silhouettes such as a white dress with ruffles and puffed sleeves, paired with a fabric headdress and denim shorts, a reinterpretation of DiCaprio's own mother's wedding dress. A baroque style was also prevalent in asymmetrical metallic satin tops and skirts, as well as a babydoll mini dress.
Avant-garde sensuality was present in the form of a tight jumpsuit rendered in a semi-transparent brown shade, a spectacular bra and a crop top jacket, both featuring long tassels and BDSM-inspired elements, as well as a white look in which the only elements incorporated were a long foulard tied around the neck paired with a tiny trikini with stars covering the model's nipples and pubic area.
Subversive style also took over the Pressiat show. The label was launched in 2020 by young designer Vincent Garnier Pressiat, known for his penchant for creating contrasts. "Suspicious" the designer's spring/summer 2023 show was presented at the Quartier Général space, located at 71 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi. The collection was reminiscent of old Hollywood, from platinum blonde Marilyn Monroe hairstyles to the glamorous long tight dresses and exaggerated shoulder pads, in line with the Besançon-born designer's customary nineties references.
The brand, which sells its designs in the multi-brand store H. Lorenzo and via its own online store, presented a co-ed fashion show that opened with a black long-sleeved dress in transparent chiffon paired with patent leather boots. In addition, a gray slim-cut suit with a narrow tie, a knitted poncho with rips and a series of corsetry looks and lingerie inspired looks shared the limelight with leather shorts and jackets, while long dresses with high shoulder pads created elongated silhouettes and a look consisting only of a body chain and a metallic thong exposed the model's body.
"I worked as an assistant to John Galliano at Maison Margiela and then went on to work for Saint Laurent and Balmain, and after the pause caused by the pandemic, I felt it was time to launch my own brand," explained Granier Pressiat to FashionNetwork.com. He wants to "dream big" and even diversify his product range by entering the home décor sector. The collection is currently produced in France and Tunisia and the prices of the brand's more elaborate garments can go up to 13,000 euros.
"It is fundamental for me to introduce 'couture' in everything I do, incorporating artisanal know-how or elements of corsetry, but maintaining a high-end ready-to-wear positioning," detailed the designer, whose designs have already been worn by celebrities Megan Thee Stallion, Charlotte Rampling and model Alton Levon Mason.
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