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Haider Ackermann delicately lights up the runway

Translated by
Benjamin Fitzgerald
Published
today Mar 5, 2018
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The large main lounge inside the Chailot palace, upholstered in black velvet, is plunged into obscurity. Far away, one can see -- from a small point of light -- a fine haze. It's in this melancholy setting, backed by the raw and sensual voice of Lou Reed lamenting his 'Vanishing Act', that models begin to appear.  


Haider Ackermann - autumn-winter 2018 - © PixelFormula


There were ultra-short looks exposing long legs covered in tights in bold colours (green absinthe, chick yellow and blue turquoise) based out with laced satin boots in the same tones, topped with floating skirts in pale rose or golden yellow. Not forgetting, the bright suit pants in orange silk. Such were the looks to feature in Haider Ackermann's autumn/winter 2018-19 collection, sending out an incredible energy.

With the fiery and unexpected colour palette, the magic came to life. "This season, I embraced colour to make a point of optimism. Times are really complicated. There's a need for colour. I wanted something exalting, joyful and at the same time fragile. Fragility can be beautiful," the designer told FashionNetwork.com backstage.

"For me, there's not just one woman, but different characters and sensibilities," he added. 

The models entering the runway each told a different story. Some were rebellious, wearing just a jacket, a jacket tied around the waist as a skirt, with colourful tights, or black latex pants.

Others played the sensuality card with silk dressing gowns left open or wore weatherproof parachute jackets in coppery metallic tones, whiles others appeared to have just chucked on a man's coat over bare skin. There was also the femme fatale in her sublime suit in silk or bright orange embroidered brocade fabric. And the romantic type with velvet evening gowns and silk blouses with ruffles, tied around the neck by long, twirling ribbons in the back.

As each look passed, all were evanescent and yet so alive, before finally disappearing in the darkness.

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