Hollywood in a mirror with fashion duo Viktor and Rolf
today Oct 1, 2012
PARIS - Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf served up Hollywood in a mirror on Saturday, with a cool cocktail of drapes and shimmer showcased midway through Paris Fashion Week.
Emerging from a hall of mirrors-like decor, their models stepped out in long fluid skirts and pantsuits, at times softened with drapes and bows, at others sharpened with metallic or mirrored detailing.
"We looked a little bit at Hollywood, the elements of a Hollywood wardrobe, like drapery, tulle, sparkly embroidery, and we twisted everything," Rolf Snoeren said backstage after the spring summer ready-to-wear show.
So tulle was used on a trenchcoat, embroidery was made of mirror "to make it look very sharp and edgy" and drapery was used for daywear, like on dresses wound sideways around the body, or slinky pantsuits of apricot or lilac.
"Everything is not quite what it seems," smiled Snoeren.
Like a series of creations in tight curly fur, like a poodle's coat, in reality made from hundreds of tiny bunched tulle roses, fashioned into a long skirt or a bolero-like little jacket.
"We wanted something very glamorous but at the same time very clean and graphic," said Snoering's design partner Viktor Horsting, with on the one hand sharp black, white and silver -- and the other a dreamy pastel palette.
Mirrors cropped up everywhere, on a chunky belt, or in giant roses -- a house symbol -- embroidered on a white skirt.
"Next year is our 20th anniversary, so we are in a reflective mood," offered Snoering by way of explanation.
Earlier the Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato rocked the catwalk with a playfully sexy spring line, shot through with explosive colour and quirky, handcrafted prints.
Chisato livened up slim pants, pantsuits or tops with a signature print of cartoon daisies on a blue background. Other prints were like stylised Japanese landscapes, one signed by Chisato on a wide leather belt cinching a fine-knit long skirt and vest top.
Fluo patterned dresses were either long and swishy, or daringly short, while bright-coloured swimwear was cut perilously low at the neck.
Martin Grant's offering for next spring could not have been further away from Chisato's cheeky offering.
The Paris-based Australian designer conjured up a chic Parisienne, sensual and slightly retro, in nipped-waist dresses, tailored bustiers and pantsuits of navy, black and white silk, with the occasional flash of poppy red.
A navy silk tunic with a stiff gold chimney collar, worn above a tiny navy skirt, opened the show.
Grant jazzed up clean, slender silhouettes with a flare at the hip, or bouffant sleeves like on a close-fitting red dress, while a short, sleeveless dress had pleats belted close to the body at the front but left to hang loose at the back.
He paired a slinky, sleeveless navy silk pantsuit with red-soled black stilettos -- used throughout to add a flash of naughtiness to the ladylike line-up.by Emma Charlton
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