June trade show season kicks off in Paris on Friday with Tranoï, Man/Woman, CIFF
today Jun 20, 2019
The menswear trade show season is kicking off once more in Paris on Friday June 21. The French capital’s benchmark events are all undergoing transformations, with Tranoï heralding a new format for example, while one of the highlights will be the first edition in Paris of the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF).
Tranoï’s forthcoming edition is scheduled on June 21-23 and, according to a press release, it will introduce a brand-new format, starting “an in-depth reflection on how to adapt [Tranoï’s] concept to the international market's evolution.” The event now consists of two hubs - Tranoï The Tradeshow and Tranoï The Showrooms - and is re-assessing its direction of travel following the announcement of the departure of David Hadida, the brains behind the event for many years.
The trade-show section, held at the Palais de la Bourse, will be much more selective in its range of exhibitors, from about 100 in the past to some 60 brands operating in ready-to-wear (both men's and women's), accessories and lifestyle. These categories are the three drivers of “an ambitious expansion of the [show’s] B2B platform, as it seeks to move in the same direction taken by new retail models,” said Tranoï.
To make the show’s blueprint more recognisable, Tranoï will split in two different areas, “one featuring designers with a unique approach to style, and another featuring contemporary labels focusing on accessible luxury.” Each section will have its own area and dedicated merchandising initiatives, and will host catwalk shows and live performances.
There will be fewer, but more notable labels, like Capsul and its founder Marvin Seror, who operates in Paris’s Marais district, and French label Studio Rice, debuting at Tranoï with its sophisticated streetwear designed by Céleste Durry (the former creative director of Xuly-bët). In the lifestyle section, one name to watch out for is electric bicycle brand VanMoof, founded by Dutch brothers Taco and Ties Carlier, with its revolutionary bike aesthetic.
As an event within the event, Tranoï picked a special guest, French designer Arthur Avellano, whose label caught the eye with its use of latex and its collections brimming with innovative materials. Arthur Avellano’s catwalk show is set for Friday 21 at 4 pm.
The other mainstay of the Parisian show’s evolution is Tranoï The Showrooms, “a professional platform providing support to international showrooms.” It does so through the Atelier Richelieu, an event first launched last year which will be replicated in the show's September session, and before then through Tranoï Week, in partnership with London Show Rooms, staged at rue de la Roquette on June 20-25, and featuring among others Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Blindless, Omar Afridi and rookie labels Per Götesson and Jordanluca.
For the forthcoming edition of the Man/Woman show, founders Antoine Floch and Olivier Migda are adopting the same format as last season. The event will be held on June 21-23 across three venues in the French capital: two of them dedicated to menswear, at 7 and 19 place Vendôme, and a third to menswear and womenswear, at 46 rue Cambon, hosting 160 labels altogether.
Of the brands which exhibited last season in place Vendôme, 90% are coming back, for a total of about 100 labels. Among those loyal to the event, Eastpak, Gitman Vintage, La Panoplie, Nanamika, National Standard and Oliver Spencer. In rue Cambon, Man/Woman will host about 40 exhibitors, both mixed-gender and womenswear labels with a focus on pre-collections, among them Le Mont Saint Michel, Loreak, Paraboot and Sessùn.
Another innovation will be the arrival at Man/Woman of the show’s Japanese homologue Jumble, whose presence in Paris was hitherto limited to a showroom. Jumble will showcase at the Espace Cambon a selection of some 30 Japanese fashion, accessories and lifestyle brands, the majority of them unknown in Paris.
Finally, after the Man/Woman founders struck a partnership with Nicolas Ivars of new Parisian concept store The Next Door last year, this season they are joining forces with the multibrand store for a series of events: among them, the after-party following Fumito Ganryu’s catwalk show on June 18, the Bang & Olufsen installation set up on the store’s first floor on June 19, the opening of the Beams X Paperboy pop-up store and the presentation of a capsule collection with Paraboot on June 22.
The third and last trade event to be staged in Paris the coming week-end, from June 21 to 24, is the first edition in the French capital of Danish trade show CIFF, masterminded by Kristian W. Andersen. The Copenhagen-based show will make its official debut in Paris at the Garage Amelot venue (133 rue Amelot) in association with creative director Stavros Karelis, founder of the Machine-A concept store. CIFF was initially expected to launch in Paris in June 2018, but was postponed until this year.
CIFF Paris will last four days and feature a series of events combining established and emerging designers, presenting about 60 menswear labels and a selection of womenswear pre-collections. Among them, British label Tolu Coker, Italian label The Night Novel, Japanese eyewear brand Blyszak, ready-to-wear label Ceam, Korean brand Inomusiki and Danish brands Hummel, Tonsure, founded by Malte Flagstad (formerly with Maison Margiela), the Sunflower collective and streetwear brand Haervaerk.
In parallel, CIFF will focus on designers like Nigerian Kenneth Ize with his mobile weaving loom, Chinese designer Ximon Lee, winner of the H&M Prize in 2015, whose creations will be showcased in a botanic, plant-inspired environment, as well as on London’s Central Saint Martins school, which selected four of its emerging designer students for the CIFF Paris show.
CIFF will also stage several events alongside the show, among them an address by Sophie Brocart, general manager of Jean Patou, on June 21, and a utopian stroll down ‘slow street’ narrated by Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution Day, and by journalist Tamsin Blanchard. Another highlight will be the Highsnobiety X Jun Inagawa exhibition, showcasing the work of the Tokyo-based graphic artist strongly influenced by the manga aesthetic, chosen as guest creative director for the next issue of Short For magazine.
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