Lemaire takes us on an elegant journey against a twilight desert backdrop
The French brand, founded in 1991, displayed its Fall/Winter 2022 collection against a dystopian backdrop created by playwright, Philippe Quesne. The show took place last Wednesday, on Jan. 19, at the Ateliers Berthier theater located a few steps away from Porte de Clichy in the 17tharrondissement of Paris. The spacious industrial space dedicated to the design and storage of theater sets hosted the fashion house’s imaginary lively landscapes.
The audience had the privilege of fully immersing themselves into the set as their seats formed a semicircle around the illuminated stage. Inspired by Étienne-Jules Marvey’s animated photography, the painted backdrop moved slowly upwards, creating the realistic illusion of a sunrise. In the misty pastel-toned environment, resembling a desert that could have well been seen in Denis Villeneuve’s film “Dune”, the models walked in opposing directions, parading with a light step that complements the soft nature of the Lemaire brand.
A serene atmosphere was achieved due to the picturesque scenery and photography along with the collection’s relaxed silhouettes seen on both the male and female garments. The casual yet sophisticated designs remained true to the brand’s founder, Christophe Lemaire, and designer Sarah-Linh Tran’s usual luxurious reinterpretation of functional clothing. The duo additionally works for Uniqlo’s R&D center in Paris as well as for the Uniqlo U line.
The travel-inspired collection featured layered garments in neutral colors, ranging from white to black to olive green, creating a versatile wardrobe in which pieces could be worn interchangeably. Long oversized coats and Asian-inspired trench coats shared the limelight with the shorter bomber and safari jackets paired with loose-fitting cuffed pants.
The midi skirts worn by the female models can be seen layered under quilts or sarongs, creating a dynamic effect of movement when walking down the runway. Fine knitted dresses and tights layered under wool coats, simple lightweight cotton shirts and trench coats create the desired nomadic look on the models deemed by the luxury brand as “modern-day hunter-gatherers.”
The Le Marais-based brand - owned by the Japanese Fast Retailing holding company since 2018 - once again stands out through its accessories. The recurring trend of balaclavas seen in this season’s fashion shows were interpreted discreetly by Lemaire in an array of neutral colors and unrestrictive fits, allowing for hair to flow against the wind. The leather crafted crossbody bags and large quilted travel bags allow for practical, everyday use while the nomadic spirit of the collection was further accentuated by the elegant, leather crafted water bottle holders.
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