Milan: Act No. 1, Moschino and Boss left an impression
From one end of the Lombardy capital to the other, fashion shows are presented one after the after, accumulating a little more delay every day. For this great return to the catwalks, after two years of the pandemic, the houses wanted to go above and beyond. But putting on an extra-special show takes much more time. Thursday, especially, the shows were attractive and unusual, playing on theatrics for Act No. 1, playfulness for Moschino and acrobatics for Boss.
Act No. 1 delivered a fashion show with great impact, which was inspired for spring-summer 2023 by the traditional Chinese opera. The first silhouettes, all in black, moved forward to the steady rhythm of percussion, their faces hidden by a painted mask or by large dark glasses. The girls with endless braids wore long glamorous gloves, perched on platform sandals adorned with metal chains, while the men were dressed in jackets and pants covered with large square pockets. A full range of denim looks were shown, in cotton in white or camel, organza in black or pink or sky-blue tulle.
Designer Luca Lin, the son of Chinese immigrants who settled in Italy, and his partner, Azeri Galib Gassanoff, who grew up in Georgia, reworked great classics. The collection included corsetry, sumptuous painted silk ensembles with oriental designs, revisited trench coats - in a bare-shoulder version this season -, and hybrid garments, where tulle is inserted as a great protagonist, in giant hoods, dresses with endless trains, enclosing the torso like an oversized fan or even in a white ‘cape-nuage’ enveloping a pantsuit.
The show also featured a series of armor pieces made from vintage metal watch straps. At the forefront, supporting the young brand this season is Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director. "With this initiative, we are putting creativity back at the center. These young people need visibility and it's right to give them support. We chose them because we share the same values and they have talent in the way to tell it," he said.
The Moschino show was a whole other style. The designer brand threw itself into the deep end with a deliciously regressive collection, centered on the theme of inflatable floats. Creative director Jeremy Scott once again mocks the world of fashion with a jubilant wardrobe, cleverly sprinkling his elegant, retro-flavored seams with amusing inflatable details.
Floats are everywhere and of all types. Mini versions, worn as bracelets around the wrists or as a hat. Bicolored floats, like the ones you see on big ocean liners, worn on the head or around the waist, paired with a micro-suit with golden buttons or with a dress with deckchair stripes. And colorful duck or pink flamingo children's floaties happily encircle their bodies.
The playful idea of the American designer is to overplay the inflatable effect. Thus, the necklines and edges of the clothes swell everywhere like excrescences. Pink or yellow plastic jackets are filled with air for a bibendum effect, the sleeves of an evening dress take the shape of two colored rubber dolphins jumping out of the water, from wrists to shoulders. Folded up, the inflatable beach bed turns into a lovely stole or a train. Likewise, the yellow beach bag is mostly reminiscent of a life jacket.
Elsewhere, inflated to the brim, the plastic blow-ups were transformed into collars, lapels or buttons in the shape of red hearts on little black dresses. They wrapped around the neck, hips, arms and even legs to tuck the dresses, sometimes impeding movement. In the accessories department, the bucket and the child's ball completed the panoply as bags.
Boss ended the day with a big show, taking his audience to the Vigorelli velodrome, which he transformed into a galactic track against a scenery of illuminated skyscrapers. As a backdrop, giant glittering wire mesh globes, which will be dominated at the end of the show by acrobats on two wheels.
Already ready to be sold, the flagship collection of German house Hugo Boss consists mainly of suits and heavy coats in wool sheets and men's fabrics in 50 (or so) shades of gray (but also beige, white and black), worn indifferently by men and women. And the suit can be sexy, especially the fitted one worn by Naomi Campbell, who opened the show in excellent form under the crackling of phones. Khaby Lame, muse of the brand and well known Senegalese Tiktoker, was also greatly admired during his passage in a white outfit.
A sporty vibe, inspired by the world of motorcycles, interferes in this seemingly classic wardrobe, to energize it through more technical outfits, such as leather jackets and pants with protections, while the matching fabric helmet becomes the chic accessory of the season.
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