Molly Goddard opens London with a fashionable banquet

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Feb 15, 2020

Molly Goddard staged the first major show of London Fashion Week on Saturday afternoon, and her muse was an indulgent choice – her dad.

 
Her spark of inspiration for Fall 2020 was a photo of herself with her father taken in 1992, which she discovered in a book of street photography published by Japanese street style magazine Fruits.
 
Her combinations for her dresses were unlikely, but not ungainly – expansive, ruffled chiffon frocks worn with Fair Isle sweaters and anchored by brothel creepers.

"Friends of my parents were always throwing together old T-shirts with coats they found in their grandparents’ closets. I suppose I did too," laughed Goddard in the backstage of Central Hall in Westminster, across the square from the British parliament.
 
"I only found the image the other day. It reminded of how much fun it was growing up and going to Portobello Market with all the vintage clothes. I used to want to dress up just to go to Portobello, as everyone looked so interesting there," added Goddard.
 
The show was staged as a banquet, with French provincial wine and sliced-up baguettes on white table clothes. With about a dozen guests per table, it almost felt like 40 versions of the Last Supper.
 
Every fashionista of note in the UK showed up for Goddard, who has carved out a huge following with her exaggerated shapes and funky tulle frocks. Godard loves ruffles so much, her handbags are made of them.
 
Molly can slide into the absurd with her over-the-top shapes, but her images have a tender beauty that makes her a special designer. This season she added crocheted flowers to vamp up the mood, yet kept the atmosphere daffy, with huge ribbons and bows sewn onto beanies. She also sent out more of her signature dark taffeta schoolgirl dresses.
 

Plus, she showed several men’s looks, playing with similar materials to those used in the women’s clothes – windowpane check, ruffles and beanies with bows.
 
"My boyfriend always complains that I never make men’s clothes, so I did," giggled the Central Saint Martins MA graduate, who in barely a half-decade has made her show a must-see in London.