OAMC dazzles at debut Paris Fashion Week show
The models stream in from the depths of a tunnel into blinding light, to strut on a night-dark runway. "I wanted to explore a man's evening wardrobe, the most formal with its long overcoats, contrasting it with a series of tech garments of military inspiration," said the Creative Director of OAMC Luke Meier backstage.
OAMC is a label that is beginning to make a name for itself. It was jointly founded in 2013 by Meier, formerly chief designer at Supreme, and Arnaud Faeh, former Creative Director at Carhartt, who is in charge of administration and sales. The label staged its debut show on Wednesday at the Pharmacy School of the University of Paris, where it captivated the audience by creating the kind of intimate atmosphere that lets the clothes do the talking.
The overall impression was one of innate elegance, with impeccable cuts and fine-fitting clothes in night-coloured, sophisticated fabrics. OAMC's collection is also practical however, featuring ample trousers with a sporty vibe, snug mohair sweaters, long quilted gilets and comfy, wide-necked parkas.
The collection brims with couture details that add a touch of originality to all the items, such as white topstitching - typical of bespoke tailoring - to mark the trouser crease, a metallic zip pocket on the side of a raincoat, shirts with a zip-up back, or hemstitched sweaters with dragonfly-shaped patterns.
The OAMC collection was designed in Paris and developed at the label's own atelier in Milan, using fabrics sourced chiefly from Italy and Japan. "I think this label, and this collection in particular, is the new embodiment of luxury," said Luke Meier, whose clothes are available in Paris at the Colette concept store and the Le Bon Marché department store.
As for the possibility that he may move to Jil Sander, Luke Meier refused to be drawn. "It's just a rumour," he said smiling, a touch embarrassed.
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