Palm Angels: From streetwear to Parisian chic
This season Demna designed long dresses with heightened shoulders for Balenciaga, while Junya Watanabe presented post-modern biker looks and Matthew M. Williams created fluid or vaporous bodycon evening dresses. The streetwear trend is definitely fading from the Parisian catwalks for autumn-winter 2023.
This Sunday, for Palm Angels' first show in Paris, Francesco Ragazzi, Milanese expert of luxury streetwear, also showed a more tailored version of his label. In the Palais Cambon, where ultramodern vertical screen installations stood next to illustrious marble columns and mouldings, the Palm Angels woman seemed to have put aside her mix prints and colours, oversized wool jumpers and logo T-shirts. Instead, for next autumn-winter, the Palm Angels woman has updated her wardrobe and given herself a Parisian chic touch. Navy blue or black jackets and coats were slim-fitting and worn with nothing underneath other than a triangle of transparent silk or a gold necklace. The trousers were also tight fitting for an elegant and slender silhouette perched on heels. And the Palm's Angels businesswomen opted for a strict officer-like suit.
It seems the stricter Palm Angels girl expresses her sensuality through leather looks. First of all in black, with coats and jackets finished with a clean edge and enhanced with buttons, zips and gold string. Leather was also present in tight trousers, long skirts or even in leggings paired with a velvet mini-skirt and a deep purple leather and faux fur jacket. Palm Angels also presented full leather looks in red and white.
A deliberate change of silhouette by the designer of the brand which is part of the New Guards Group: "Coming to Paris this season, it's an important moment for us," explained the designer. "It's important for a global brand to be able to evolve. We wanted to push our women's offer much further, but also the way we make the products. It was clearly a challenge for the whole company, but I think we succeeded."
However, Francesco Ragazzi has not completely forgotten his codes. His men's looks, whether leather, long coats or (especially) intricately detailed silk tracksuits, offered a more streetwear vibe, mostly paired with white sneakers with the palm tree logo. And for the women's looks most of the models wore a hood as part of their outfit, like a neckband, which broke up the formal silhouettes. The hoods read a Parisian address: 127 rue Saint-Honoré.
The future location of the brand's flagship in Paris. The address was displayed on a number of pieces from the collection: a multicoloured down jacket with a large palm tree logo on the back and finished like daisy petals, a thick velvet men's tracksuit decorated with shiny studs, or on the back of a leather jacket as well as on a unique hoodie... Given the number of pieces dedicated to the flagship store, its opening is clearly a major event.
The Italian label will most certainly offer its clothes and shoes in the new store. But the brand has also launched a multitude of sunglasses and gold jewellery in the shape of a small palm tree, which will surely grab consumers attention.
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