Paul Smith: Tailoring the end of athleisure
A return to power tailoring but with a raffish touch at Sir Paul Smith, in the latest sign from Paris that the whole athleisure movement in fashion may have run its course.
"We do sell a lot of sportswear, but I just feel that the whole athleisure thing has been overused and damaged," said fashion’s longest running knight.
His remarks coming minutes after staging his most tailored show in decades. He cut some great double-breasted matinée idol suits; extra long for the catwalk and cut with sharp peak lapels. Or more boyish versions with micro double-breasted blazer, worn mainly by gals in this co-ed show.
He varied his trouser widths, but the majority were hugely roomy, as the Paris season signals the death knell of the tailored, drainpipe skinny pant.
"We’ve always done tailoring in every single show, and this is number 82. It just feels more right for today," said Sir Paul, now joined in the tiny confraternity of fashionable knights by Ralph Lauren.
Nothing terribly path-breaking, but all very plausible from this consummate professional, Britain’s most successful indie designer.
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