×
77 811
Fashion Jobs
BANANA REPUBLIC
General Manager - st. Augustine Premium
Permanent · ST. AUGUSTINE
KOHLS
Full-Time Sales Supervisor - Softlines
Permanent · Akron
ROSS
Store Protection Specialist
Permanent · Hamilton Township
MACY'S
Manager, Asset Protection - Multi-Store
Permanent · Raleigh
MACY'S
Manager, Merchandise Execution
Permanent · Grapevine
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Hanes
Permanent · Winston-Salem
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Mall at University Town Center Sarasota
Permanent · Sarasota
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Livingston
Permanent · Livingston
ABERCROMBIE KIDS STORES
Abercrombie Kids - Brand Representative, Memorial City
Permanent · Houston
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH STORES
Abercrombie & Fitch - Brand Representative, Marketstreet Lynnfield
Permanent · Lynnfield
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Shops at Lacantera
Permanent · San Antonio
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Tysons Corner
Permanent · McLean
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Burlington
Permanent · Burlington
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Mall of New Hampshire
Permanent · Manchester
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Rockingham Park
Permanent · Salem
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Dartmouth
Permanent · Dartmouth
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Holyoke
Permanent · Holyoke
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, West County
Permanent · Des Peres
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Arbor Place
Permanent · Douglasville
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH STORES
Abercrombie & Fitch - Brand Representative, Savannah Outlets
Permanent · Pooler
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH CO.
Part/Full-Time Fit Consultant (Size 4)
Permanent · Columbus
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative, Avenue Murfreesboro
Permanent · Murfreesboro
Published
Sep 24, 2021
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Prada: Miuccia and Raf make their joint runway debut

Published
Sep 24, 2021

The season’s biggest runway debut in Milan was Raf Simons in tandem with Miuccia Prada, a show staged Friday afternoon CET time in the brand’s foundation, and simultaneously in Shanghai.
 

Prada - Spring/Summer 2022 - Womenswear - Milan - Photo: Prada


Raf actually began his collaboration with Miuccia two years ago, and the pair have now unveiled several collections digitally. But due to Covid this was their first live catwalk show as a duo: ultimately, the true test of any designer’s mettle.
 
Little doubt about it, this was an impressive performance and organizational feat. Banks of video screens in the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada projected live images of Pudong skyscrapers before the two shows – with exactly the same series of looks – began six time zones apart.

"No one had ever before tried this in history, it seemed so complicated. But I said that after this Covid experience we had to learn from it and try something different," explained the normally voluble Miuccia backstage, before politely pleading fears of contamination and declining to speak about her inspiration. At which point, a communications director directed editors to read a press release with quotes from the two designers. These were of such entirely anodyne and over-edited prose that it would be unfair to subject any reader to them.
 
On the actual catwalk, the show opened with some raffishly cut leather jackets – simple blazers with elevated breast-pockets, rock star bombers, posh Hells Angels biker looks, sleek spy trenches and Humphrey Bogart truck driver looks. However, for a brand whose DNA was always about arty perfection, their distressed finish reminded one of Diesel. Quite frankly, we never imagined Miuccia Prada as a fan of Bon Jovi.
 
Almost every third look came with a meter-long train, cut so small it looked like an exaggerated belt. Scores of looks featured the upside-down Prada triangle logo, while one dress – a real stunner in black – even incorporated the shape into its neckline, while its deep V gorge back showed a belt at the base of the spine. It was rather magical.
 
There was talk of the theme of trains backstage, and the sense of curvy speed was apparent in several ribbed knit tops and dresses, as well as in some sassy black leather minis topped by silk blouses, gathered like locomotive pistons. Frequently, though, the mood jarred – as with a very odd, Valentino-red, guipure sheath, cut mid-calf, that was a bit of a shambles. 
 
To sum up, a mixed bag of a collection, even with some great highlights, where the cast bravely marched around an undulating maze of runways with scores of varying step sizes. The fact no one fell, as two publishers did pre-show, was quite an accomplishment.


Prada - Spring/Summer 2022 - Womenswear - Milan - Photo: Prada

 
Also, given the movement toward inclusivity in fashion and wider society, it did jar that the entire cast in Shanghai was Asian, while in Milan it was very much multiracial. Simons' hand was also evident in the casting – a younger, skinnier selection of models than one historically associates with Prada.
 
Throughout Milan, one finds ads in bus stops showing young women laughing uproariously with the tagline, "Feels Like Prada." Making the brand previously known as the natural destination of brainy, intellectual, independent women into the latest Milanese house desperate to lower the age of their target market.

Copyright © 2023 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.