×
92 807
Fashion Jobs
KOHLS
Full-Time Sales Supervisor - Softlines
Permanent · Salisbury
GAP
Asset Protection Service Representative - Gloucester Premium
Permanent · Gloucester Township
GAP
Asset Protection Service Representative - Atlantic City Tanger
Permanent · Atlantic City
NIKE
Materials Costing Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
CONVERSE
Retail Operations Manager
Permanent · Boston
NIKE
Art Director
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Digital Loss Prevention Data Analyst - North America Nike Direct Digital Commerce (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Tech Ops Resilience (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Enterprise Service Management HR Service Delivery
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Content Manager
Permanent · Los Angeles
CONVERSE
Senior Financial Analyst, Global Business Planning
Permanent · Boston
NIKE
Tech Finance Analyst
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Nike Security Manager – Foothill Ranch
Permanent · Lake Forest
NIKE
Nike Security Manager – Los Angeles
Permanent · Los Angeles
NIKE
Lead Technical Product Manager, Privacy (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Finance Data Product Owner
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Senior Technical Product Manager (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Global Store Operations Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
First Mile Transportation Business Process Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Senior Technical Project Manager – Air mi
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Territory Loss Prevention Director
Permanent · Dallas
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Innovation (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Atlanta
Published
Sep 10, 2022
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Proenza Schouler: Getting in touch with your inner Latino

Published
Sep 10, 2022

New York Fashion Week properly opened Friday afternoon with Proenza Schouler, the first important show listed on the official runway calendar and it transpired a homage to the Latin origins of one half of the designer duo.

Passionate, sultry and slick, this was a thoroughly powerful fashion statement, powered on by multiple Latino elements; from flamenco dresses, to ruffled pants, to the sheer steaminess of the mood.  A first-rate cast, showing lots of flesh covered in perspiration, as if they just exited a samba dance floor.


Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2023 collection in New York - Proenza Schouler


From Kendall Jenner with a sweaty torso and greased back hair, appearing in a semi-sheer loose weave knit skirt and bra top, both finished with fringes, to Mariacarla Boscono in a loose knit tank over a beautifully cut tulip skirt.

Pencil pants flared out below the knee worthy of a salsa star, rouched halter-neck dresses were cut handkerchief style. The color palette was exuberantly tropical: bitter lemon, violet, turquoise and gold. Yet, even if pointedly Hispanic, the collection never felt literal and the clothes all had that hybrid modernism of uptown chic and downtown cool that is the signature of the Proenza Schouler duo of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.

“Identity, gender identity, cultural identity, my Latin history that we have never really explored. I’m Cuban and it’s about my family. And how we Latinos need some love. There is so much beauty and passion in that culture that it seemed amazing to explored,” explained Hernandez.

Moreover, the pair broke new ground with the unexpected and exhilarating materials. Opening with multiple machine crochet garments with techno finishes. Later, incorporating lacquer and viscose meshes in sexy cocktails, and finishing smart dresses with Irish lace made from French embroidery.


Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2023 collection in New York - Proenza Schouler


Known for tapping into unique artisans, this season Proenza Schouler ventured to Bolivia. 

“We found this beautiful community of hand weavers - part of the Latin thing - and some the cotton yarns mixed with metallic shreds at the finale were hand crocheted by them. They worked on this for the past six months and were so joyful and happy,” explained McCollough.

Staged inside the Hall des Lumières, a landmark Beaux Arts building near City Hall, though reimagined brilliantly with an immersive video installation so the cast all marched before giant Niagara-worthy cascades - adding effectively to the drama.

Asked why he felt like referencing his Latin origins, Hernandez responded: “Maybe because my dad is getting old. And he has been telling me lots of stories about back in the days. He is writing poems now. A lot of Latin men feel they cannot express emotion but in his old age he has gotten emotional and is writing about his life, which is beautiful, touching and inspiring.”

Given the sheer quality and novelty of this show, it looks like New York might just be about to have a bumper season.

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.