×
92 821
Fashion Jobs
GAP
Asset Protection Service Representative - Gloucester Premium
Permanent · Gloucester Township
GAP
Asset Protection Service Representative - Atlantic City Tanger
Permanent · Atlantic City
NIKE
Materials Costing Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
CONVERSE
Retail Operations Manager
Permanent · Boston
NIKE
Art Director
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Digital Loss Prevention Data Analyst - North America Nike Direct Digital Commerce (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Tech Ops Resilience (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Enterprise Service Management HR Service Delivery
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Content Manager
Permanent · Los Angeles
CONVERSE
Senior Financial Analyst, Global Business Planning
Permanent · Boston
NIKE
Tech Finance Analyst
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Nike Security Manager – Foothill Ranch
Permanent · Lake Forest
NIKE
Nike Security Manager – Los Angeles
Permanent · Los Angeles
NIKE
Lead Technical Product Manager, Privacy (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Finance Data Product Owner
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Senior Technical Product Manager (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Global Store Operations Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
First Mile Transportation Business Process Manager
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Senior Technical Project Manager – Air mi
Permanent · Beaverton
NIKE
Territory Loss Prevention Director
Permanent · Dallas
NIKE
Director, Technical Product Management – Innovation (Remote Option*)
Permanent · Atlanta
NIKE
Senior Technical Product Manager, Data Migration And Assurance Solutions
Permanent · Beaverton
Published
Oct 1, 2022
Reading time
4 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Roger Vivier and Delvaux explore heritage for Spring 2023

Published
Oct 1, 2022

There seems to be a new brand launching daily, but one thing these startups are missing: heritage. A years-long or even a centuries-long legacy is relegated to a few luxury accessories brands whose craft and innovation have stood the test of time. Two brands, Roger Vivier and Delvaux, presented their latest collections in Paris with presentations punctuating that their quality and design live eternally.

Roger Vivier took a more cerebral approach to its event this season, steering away from the frivolity of Hotel Vivier for a more studied look at what goes into their elaborate shoes and bags. Led by creative director Gherardo Felloni, the Tod's Group-owned French label took over the Fondation Simone and Cino Del Duca and turned it into a visual and physical study of the house codes, referring to itself as La Maison Vivier. While meant to teach, it was anything but institutional. As Felloni said in an interview, "it was time for the house to do the talking."


Roger Vivier Spring/Summer 2023 collection - Roger Vivier


With the multimedia experience, installations, artisans, and live performers, it was more than just informational. Guests were greeted by a giant wooden shoe, referencing one the shoe designer made for an exhibit at a 1987 retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The event showcased six design concepts the house is known for; 'King of the Heel', 'Belle Vivier', 'I Love Vivier', 'Collages', 'Virgule', 'Embroideries', and 'Jewel heel'.

As attendees journeyed from room to room, they discovered artisans at work in each, demonstrating techniques that define Roger Vivier shoes, such as embroiderers, leather cutters, and crystal setters.

The creative director told FashionNetwork.com that this season was even more homage to the archives.

"This season, I focused on the icons of the house and the savoir-faire and craftsmanship," he said, explaining the presentation concept. "I showed a craftsperson once before, and people were really fascinated, so you will see in each room artisans demonstrating how the shoes and bags are made," he added.

A focus this season is a satin bow, something Felloni also said was in the treasure trove archives.

"I see this beautiful bow every time I go to the archives. Roger Vivier was among the first to take bows and flowers from hats and put them on shoes.," he explained.

In this sense, the key shoe of the season, the 'Virgule Flowers Bow Slingback', encompasses many house codes; the curved comma heel, the embroidered paillettes and gemstone flowers, the bow, and the use of vibrant color. The 'Viv' Choc Flowers' with its embroidered strass coordinate nicely.  
Don't be fooled by the adornments. According to the designer, these beauties are intended to be worn in the daytime. "It's never too much! I believe in freedom; if you want to wake up and wear a Virgule kitten heel or Choc heel with a pair of jeans, why not? 

Delvaux, the Belgian luxury house founded in 1829, also looked to its heritage to explore how the design remains relevant and transformative each season. The brand, currently led by former president Jean-Marc Loubier transformed a townhouse on the tony Boulevard de Latour-Maubourg into a "Villégiature," or what the Belgians refer to as a summer getaway. The presence of the new owner Richemont was evidenced in the elaborate event.

Delvaux Spring/Summer 2023 collection - Delvaux


Lifesize sandcastles and colorful leather windmills served as a backdrop for the house to display its seasonal focus, which includes classic bag styles interpreted in new ways. Among the messages were the new colorful versions of the 1967 'Tempête' as a tote, clutch, and a new pochette style.

The clutch shape inspired Delvaux's debut styles: the 'Lingot' with elongated D-shaped hardware and the 'Leonce' inspired by an archive style in the seventies.

The 'Pin' bag, influenced by a feedbag for horses, was celebrating fifty years and got a new look to mark the occasion, transforming into a mini wristlet clutch and new 'Pin' toy size, just big enough for a phone, keys, cards, and lipstick. Interestingly, the bags offer an entry price point of $2,000. Though Loubier insists it isn't the point.

"It's about the different parts of a women's day and how she lives. The client can own everything we do and crave what we do in different sizes and materials," said Loubier.

While the styles respect the label's legacy, so do the details that highlight the craftsmanship. New D-leather tab details and colorful leather pom poms that require twenty minutes to assemble just one and wicker from France's Loire valley demonstrate the craft that goes into each Delvaux bag.

"There is a lot of craft; it's ours, and we apply them to existing bag shapes because without those, they are not as interesting," Loubier explained, adding, "A Delvaux bag lasts generations. We play with novelty around what we are known for; you recognize the shape, but the leathers, finishes, sizes, colors, etc. change."

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.