Sies Marjan makes Paris runway debut
Sander Lak chose the Opéra Bastille and the skyline of the French capital as the background for the Paris runway debut of his brand Sies Marjan, which presented its first ever menswear show on Sunday. The Dutch designer, who usually shows his collections in New York, surprised his audience with a "hybrid spring and fall" collection for a cerebral, open-minded man.
It was a big step that turned out to be a successful debut for the designer, who launched his first menswear capsule in December 2017 and his first full men's line in 2018, having shown his menswear pieces as part of his womenswear runways up until now.
Lak kicked off the show with a series of delicate, sensual looks mixing a pastel palette of sky blue, aquamarine, mint green and rose with a full range of nude tones reflecting the diversity of the runway's multi-ethnic cast. The menswear wardrobe was also lit up by seductive combinations of shimmering fabrics, a trademark of the Sies Marjan label, which Lak founded in 2015, reappropriating the first names of his father and mother.
Continuing the cool, flowy aesthetic of his women's ready-to-wear, the designer proposed a knitted boiler suit which opened to reveal a low-cut sweater, along with a workwear-style cotton jumpsuit worn under a deconstructed jacket.
One model had opened the top half of his purple jumpsuit completely, leaving it to hang from his waist and pairing it with a long-sleeved electric-blue polo shirt, while another boldly wore a low-cut tight-fitting playsuit. Others tied their cardigans around their waists, adding an effortlessly chic touch to looks subtly pairing glossy satin shirts with trousers.
The designer demonstrated great attention to detail, placing diagonal pockets on a pair of trousers, wrapping a fluttering ribbon-belt around the waist of a tunic-like shirt, and multiplying the colourful straps attached to the collar of a trench. Elsewhere, the azure buttons of a shirt were matched with the rest of the suit worn by the model.
Some classic striped shirts had their collars opened into wide V-necks that ran all the way up to the shoulder. A deep-necked orange micro-sweater was worn over a long white poplin shirt and shorts. A loose hazelnut coat hung down to the feet of the model wearing it, like a bathrobe.
In colourful lace-up hiking boots or sandals paired with long woollen socks, the models sent down the runway by Lak had something ambivalent about them, also revealing a harsher side.
This was seen in the leather and treated wool used in some bulkier, all-enveloping looks: a milky jade crocodile-skin suit, a shearling vest in cracked patent leather, a trench in burgundy satin with a large fur collar, a plush ocean blue coat, and a series of zebra-print jackets and trousers in worsted wool.
All in all, it was a promising start for Lak's menswear. The designer previously served as creative director at Dries Van Noten for five years, and has also collaborated with Philip Lim, Marc Jacobs and Balmain. Having trained at ArtEz in Arnhem, in the Netherlands, and then at Central Saint Martins in London, he launched his brand with the support of millionnaire Nancy Marks. His label's products are now distributed by top multibrand retailers around the world.
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