×
69 441
Fashion Jobs
ESTEE LAUDER
Manager, Channel Marketing, Aveda na
Permanent · New York
ESTEE LAUDER
Area Manager, Production - Bristol - 2nd Shift
Permanent · Bristol
ESTEE LAUDER
Keyholder - The Cosmetic Company Store - 20hrs - Philadelphia Premium Outlets - Pottstown,PA
Permanent · Pottstown
ESTEE LAUDER
Area Manager, Technical Services - Bristol - 2nd Shift
Permanent · Bristol
ASCENA
Part Time Sales Manager - Ann Taylor, The Woodlands Mall
Permanent · The Woodlands
LEVI'S
Art Director
Permanent · Remote
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations | Ponce City Market
Permanent · Atlanta
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations | Arizona Market
Permanent · Scottsdale
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Guest Experience | Arizona Market
Permanent · Scottsdale
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Skin Care Consultant
Permanent · Fort Walton Beach
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
IT Manager - End User Services
Permanent · Bolingbrook
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Tax Analyst - Sales & Use Compliance
Permanent · Bolingbrook
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
General Manager
Permanent · Walker
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
General Manager
Permanent · Baltimore
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Inventory Control Specialist
Permanent · Bolingbrook
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
General Manager
Permanent · Harker Heights
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Retail Sales Manager
Permanent · Jacksonville Beach
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
Retail Operations Manager
Permanent · Wall Township
ULTA BEAUTY, INC.
General Manager
Permanent · Carbondale
URBN
Anthropologie Buyer - Upholstery
Permanent · PHILADELPHIA
URBN
Free People Senior Merchandise Planner
Permanent · PHILADELPHIA
ALICE AND OLIVIA
Sales Supervisor - Los Angeles
Permanent · Los Angeles
Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
Jan 10, 2020
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Telfar’s gargantuan arty feast at Pitti Uomo

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
Jan 10, 2020

Usually, fashion is a small, ultra-pampered world, its gala evenings and most exclusive dinner parties the preserve of a select elite. On Thursday, in Florence, Clemens Telfar changed the rules of the game. For his show-event at Pitti Uomo, he convened the press and buyers only after the party was over. Nothing less was to be expected from the African-American designer, whose anti-fashion label Telfar defies classification.


One of the artist-models at Telfar's catwalk show/banquet - ph Dominique Muret


On the evening before the show, Clemens Telfar took over Palazzo Corsini, a sumptuous baroque building on the banks of the river Arno, with his family and friends, among them designer Shayne Oliver, actor Jeremy O. Harris, DJ Total Freedom and artist Boy Child, and staged a party to end all parties. Featuring a Pantagruelian banquet and live musical performances, the feast lasted long into the night. The whole entourage was then able to grab much-needed sleep on site, on beds laid out in one of the palazzo’s salons.

The catwalk show took place the day after, in a post-party setting. There were rose petals floating in a period bathtub, and in the centre of the main hall, an improvised stage with musical instruments was encircled by a huge banqueting table. Further away, an array of unmade beds. The table functioned as runway, its long white tablecloth stained with wine, the dinner’s leftovers and dirty napkins heaped up all over the place. Scraps and empty bottles were scattered here and there, and uneaten food rotted in large silver plates.

The models zigzagged through the debris and the candelabra, whose candles had long since stopped burning. Some of the models were teetering, worn out by the night's revels. Others tried a few dance steps, or joined the musicians on their little stage, accompanying them with superb voices. They were all clad in Telfar’s latest creations from the Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection, notably inspired by quattrocento Tuscan art.

The collection has “a romantic touch,” said Clemens Telfar backstage. Alongside oversize denim ensembles and scores of cable-knit pieces, from knitted dresses to ample logo-ed pullovers and sweaters, Telfar broke new ground with striped trousers tied above the knee like 17th century culottes, pussy-bowed cotton tops, flared disco leggings in cable-knit wool or with down jacket-style hems, gathered and hemstitched tops, and tunics embellished with medieval-style lace collars.


A Telfar item for the Fall/Winter 2020-21 - ph Dominique Muret


Among the most interesting items, scores of street-style outfits in hybridised versions: a down-jacket/sweatshirt, a leather biker jacket whose upper part is made of thick knitted wool, and trousers made in three segments of different materials: denim, wool and leather. Lightweight nylon is also ubiquitous, used for trousers and jackets that are gathered up and tucked in with drawstrings to create unexpected volumes. The overcoats look like inflated armour. Telfar knows how to please, and also featured ultra-attractive items like the maxi leather boots and a plethora of models much more commercial than usual.

Clemens Telfar travelled to Tuscany with his team right after the show he staged in Paris at the La Cigale theatre last September. “We came straight to the factories, and spent four months here! The fabrics we use are velvet, leather and cable-knit wool, all of them Italian,” enthused the New York-based designer, super happy for having treated himself to this “Tuscan dream.”

Telfar is distributed by Slam Jam and has 80 multibrand clients worldwide. Its main market is Europe, followed by Asia and the USA.

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.