Tod’s new primordial-yet-posh approach
Finally, after many a season, the Tod’s gal that looks, well, pretty cool.
Looking like she reads contemporary novels; knows the difference between Joe Mantegna and Andrea Mantegna; takes the 'L' train to Brooklyn and dances in Annabel’s. Unlike her older sister, this Tod’s lass does not try too hard when she is getting dressed to go out in the morning.
Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi returned to the scene of so many presentations by the brand, to Villa Necchi Campiglio, a temple of mid-century Italian Modernist design. But he took the brand somewhere new with this nearly five-and-a-half-minute video, led by a torch song singer and model. A cast of brainy models took over the villa with style. Irina Shayk opened the action in an all-denim dress with visible stitching and a mega golden chain necklace.
Tod’s new lady is a downtown gal with upmarket tastes – who likes pleated flared skirts; boyish leather blazers cut short and worn naughtily with minis underneath, and ruffled satin cocktails in lilac, the sort never seen before at Tod's. It’s a raw and quite utilitarian take on the label. When the lady heads out it’s with a new bucket-shaped bag on her arm or a green snakeskin Oboe bag, thrown over her shoulder; leather ties nonchalantly wrapped around her waist, or great new beveled Plexiglas heeled and buckled sandals. The guys appear in similar washed out materials, adding to the sense of ease.
“I wanted very cinematographic this season. To put the accent on emotion and human beings; while showing more contemporary codes, with tailoring and craftsmanship. And more eccentricity especially in outerwear,” explained Chiapponi in a pre-show Zoom with FashionNetwork.com.
There is a lived-in air, with faded cotton short jackets and workerist denim jackets for ladies, albeit in washed-out purple. While the DNA of Tod’s, primarily an accessories house, was also nicely scrambled with silver-studded bumps on the house’s Gommino; or classic loafers reinterpreted with bold stitching.
Chiapponi moved from Milan to the Tod’s factory this spring, living near the Adriatic coast and enjoying seafood for three months.
“We were right next to the artisans and my team was not so much designing as working directly on toile and materials. So, stitching became giant – and surfaces became three dimensional with washing, over dyeing and chiaroscuro. Really raw craftsmanship,” said Chiapponi back in Milano, speaking before the first acquisition for his art collection, a Nan Goldin image of transvestite hairdresser Jimmy Paul.
Throughout the video Mariacarla Boscono smoldered, though the star of the moment was singer Okay Kaya, who modelled for Chiapponi in his former job at Bottega Veneta, and put in a sultry performance in Villa Necchi. The camera wandering around the villa’s grand rooms, unveiling more musicians. Marking the first time Tod’s showed men's and women's together.
“I like a strong women’s voice; sensual femininity. A David Lynch mood with a woman almost naked in a slip dress. I want a new identity for Tod’s. I don’t want sharp edges and sleek and dry. I want organic and emotional,” concluded the designer who ended the video sitting at the bottom of the stairs surrounded by his cast.
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