Trade shows back with renewed verve during Paris Fashion Week
Parisian trade shows are back with renewed verve. Tranoï will be held once again at the Palais Brongniart venue, and Première Classe's forthcoming edition promises to have the same feel as the show’s pre-pandemic sessions.
Palais Brongniart in Paris, home to the Tranoï show - DR
Tranoï back at Palais Brongniart
After staging its last Parisian womenswear show at Palais de Tokyo, Tranoï is back at Palais Brongniart, home to its March 2020 edition, and is heralding a strong international presence.
The show will be held on March 4-7, featuring “between 90 and 100 exhibitors. This [edition of Paris] Fashion Week will be the most lively after the pandemic, with buyers returning to our event and physical shows making a come-back. Good news for the entire industry,” said Boris Provost, managing director of Tranoï.
Tranoï will showcase a number of emerging designers, with some 40 young labels exhibiting at the entrance of the show (like Spanish label Duarte, Tweek from the Netherlands, Façon Jacmin from Belgium and Maison Marcelle from France), as well as about 50 established contemporary labels from around the world, including 15 from Italy and a few from Portugal.
Among them, Tranoï regulars like Majestic Filatures and Susanne Bommer, Les Prairies de Paris, the label by Laetitia Ibanez which was relaunched in 2020, and a host of jewellery and accessories brands, accounting for approximately 30% of all exhibitors, like Atelier Paulin.
“This edition will feature many international exhibitors again, and will notably welcome a number of Korean labels, thanks to a partnership with the Seoul Metropolitan Government, which will present 10 established Korean designers in a new setting,” he added. Five of them will show on Sunday March 6 at 4.30 pm CET in the Palais Brongniart’s event hall.
In addition to offering a live-streaming service for online collection presentations, Tranoï is collaborating with trend agency Fashion Snoops, with which it will stage a conference on Fall/Winter 2022-23 trends on Saturday at 5 pm CET.
Tranoï’s forthcoming edition is expecting over 4,000 visitors, including buyers from major department stores like Bloomingdale's, Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods.
Première Classe looking to grow
After an October edition that showcased 220 exhibitors, the Première Classe show will return to the Jardin des Tuileries venue in Paris on March 4-7, very much with a pre-pandemic feel.
The show’s creative directors, Romain Costa and Evane Haziza-Bonnamour, have christened the new session ‘All-Over’, referring to the material used from floor to ceiling in all areas of the show. Art and design are the themes characterising the event, which will notably feature a vintage furniture exhibition open to the general public.
Among the 300 exhibitors expected, more than at the show’s last edition, in October, which hosted 225 brands, Première Classe will welcome new entries like ready-to-wear labels Journey and Jersey, Eka and Crem28, and a dozen accessories brands, including La Cerise sur le chapeau and leather goods brand Isadora Limare.
Like Tranoï, Première Classe is keen to support emerging designers, and will welcome finalists and winners from a number of French and international fashion competitions, including four former Hyères Festival finalists – Casa Remedios, Amuro, Lii and Céline Shen – as well as ceramist Evgeniia Kazarezova, first winner of the Première Classe x Eyes on Talents prize; fashion label Alphonse Maitrepierre, winner of the City of Paris Design Prize; outerwear label Oblique, winner of the Sustainable Fashion prize at the ‘Talents de mode’ competition; and Histoire de voir, winner of the Première Classe prize at optics show Silmo.
Also not to be missed, six labels selected by Birimian, a start-up accelerator focusing on brands by African designers. The ‘Precious Room by Muriel Piaser’ section, dedicated to costume and fine jewellery, will present the creations of eight designers, while glove maker Agnelle will celebrate its 85th anniversary by presenting twelve pairs of gloves designed by artist Jérémy Kapone. Catering at the show will be courtesy of the Mpepite restaurant with its gourmet menus, while Hana Bento and Minato will delight visitors with Japanese street food.
While Paris, despite the international situation, is once again caught in fashion week fever, the Man/Woman show is gradually returning to business as usual. The Woman event is scheduled on March 4-6 at Oddity, a multifunctional venue located at 27, rue Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth, near place de la République. It will showcase the Fall/Winter 2022 collections by a dozen labels, including Chimala from the USA, Grenson from the UK, Il Bisonte from Italy and Our Sister from Belgium.
A number of brands from Germany, Switzerland and Austria will also be making their Parisian come-back on March 4-7, at the DACH Showroom, at 18 rue Perrée. The AFAXDACH event will showcase collections by a dozen labels from these three countries, including Astrid Deigner, Florentina Leitner and Mussels and Muscles. The event will be graced by an installation created by Vienna-based artists Anton Defant and Benjamin Nagy. The installation is called ‘Basecamp’ and is an amusing ode to the joys of camping on green meadows under a blue sky.
Finally, Sphère, the showroom organised by the French Fashion and Haute Couture Federation, will be open until March 8 at Palais de Tokyo, featuring the Fall/Winter collections by eight labels: Benjamin Benmoyal, Chenpeng, Christoph Rumpf, Germanier, Kenneth Ize, Lecourt Mansion, Mossi and Thebe Magugu. A selection that should prove highly interesting to buyers and the media.
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