87 163
Fashion Jobs
ECCO
Third Keyholder
Permanent · ELIZABETH
ECCO
Third Keyholder
Permanent · LAS VEGAS
ECCO
Sales Manager - National Accounts (Remote)
Permanent · LONDONDERRY
ECCO
Third Keyholder
Permanent · ROSEMONT
LULULEMON
Community Specialist | Summit, Springfield Ave
Permanent · SUMMIT
LULULEMON
Expeditor | Cherry Creek
Permanent · DENVER
LULULEMON
Community Specialist | Friendly Center
Permanent · GREENSBORO
NORDSTROM
Customer Service Representative - Hillsdale Shopping Center
Permanent · SAN MATEO
NORDSTROM
Retail Stock - Mercer Mall Rack
Permanent · LAWRENCE TOWNSHIP
NORDSTROM
Manager- Service Experience- Baton Rouge Mall Rack
Permanent · BATON ROUGE
NORDSTROM
Retail Stock - Sugar House Rack
Permanent · SALT LAKE CITY
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Aventura
Permanent · AVENTURA
NORDSTROM
Retail Stock - Northwoods Rack
Permanent · SAN ANTONIO
NEIMAN MARCUS
Business Manager Tom Ford, Beauty (PT, 35 Hours) - FT. Worth
Permanent · FORT WORTH
NEIMAN MARCUS
Sales Manager, Designer Rtw
Permanent · CORAL GABLES
NEIMAN MARCUS
Sales Professional, Beauty
Permanent · NEW YORK
TIFFANY & CO
Manager, HR Business Partner
Permanent · NEW YORK
URBN
Security Officer (Monday-Thursday; Overnight Shift)
Permanent · LEVITTOWN
AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS
ae - Market Visual Leader - us
Permanent · MCLEAN
CROCS
Supervisor, Distribution Center - 1st Shift
Permanent · LAS VEGAS
NEWELL
Associate Brand Manager, Coleman
Permanent · ATLANTA
NEWELL
Senior Director, Analytics
Permanent · HOBOKEN
By
AFP
Published
Jan 21, 2016
Reading time
3 minutes
Download
Download the article
Print
Text size

Trousers go baggy as Paris men's fashion gets supersized

By
AFP
Published
Jan 21, 2016

If the first day of the menswear catwalks shows is anything to go by, men will be flapping around in too-long trousers and enormous ankle-length coats when the new autumn-winter designs hit the shops in six months' time.

Valentino - Fall-Winter2016 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


Most of the models in Off-White's show looked as if they had borrowed their big brother's clothes or were auditioning for a remake of the video of British ska band Madness' 1980 hit "Baggy Trousers".

- Badass sleep suits -

American designer Virgil Abloh, fashion guru to the rapper Kanye West, went for long flowing greatcoats and bomber jackets with hands lost inside long sleeves, and a series of huge overcoats that could double as man-sized badass baby sleep suits.

Even the usually restrained Parisian label Lemaire was in on the new look, mixing its classic restrained collection with boxy coats that go below knee and long baggy pants that are likely to fray on the pavement behind you.

Newcomers OAMC tried to give the supersize look a snarling street wise twist in their debut show, with big parkas paired with short baggy trousers and boots.

Their skinhead models played at being gang members, insulting the audience who were forced to stand -- "Fils de pute!" (sons of whores) -- in between shouting out the brand's name.

- Hippy dippy -

In the face of such brazen bad manners Valentino was all perfect lines and grooming. But mid-show its design duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli suddenly went all hippy with ponchos and rancher sheepskin jackets before going south of the border with black tailored suits with white stitching that channelled both the Mexican Day of the Dead and Cockney pearly kings.

Walter Van Beirendonck - Fall-Winter2016 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


The joyous highlight of the day, however, was the Belgian Walter Van Beirendonck's riotously inventive show "Woest", which means furious in his native Flemish.

With felt scarves with cuddly toys at one end and Kalashnikov rifle or chainsaw shapes at the other, van Beirendonck was clearly inspired by the terror attacks and migrant crisis shaking Europe.

- Pappa Smurf -

Looking like a cross between Papa Smurf and a pirate with his full grey beard, orange bobble hat and pearl earrings, the designer told AFP the scarves were "like dolls. We wanted to create kind of puppets. We feel today like we are puppets and other people are pulling the strings. It is a mixture of very sweet things and very aggressive things which is what the world is like now.

"What has happened in the last year has been really depressing," he added. "Everyone has the feeling the the world is really fucked up and that things are out of control. The migrants, the attacks and the crime... It's tough."

- Stop to terror -

Using bold primary colours and some eye catching mixes of ethnic, Amerindian and leopard skin motifs, van Beirendonck also went big and baggy but opted for shorter flared trousers, the better to show off his multi-coloured high-heeled Oxford shoes.

Emblazoned across the chest of one see-through sweater was the message "Stop terrorizing our world."

"Even the hardest things in life I try to transfer into the most colourful fabrics," he said. "I don't want to create doom."

Copyright © 2024 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.