Uniqlo bag tops Lyst Index, Prada is star brand, sunglasses, 90s, quiet luxury are key
Surprisingly in a ranking that usually contains bags, belts, sneakers and more retailing for hundreds (even thousands) of dollars, pounds, euros and yen, Uniqlo’s shoulder bag was the hottest product of the quarter.
Retailing at under $20, it’s the cheapest product to be featured in the Lyst Index’s history. It went viral on TikTok, generating 59 million+ views on the platform and has sold out multiple times across multiple colourways.
Meanwhile, as mentioned, Prada stayed the hottest brand in the world for the second consecutive quarter, with searches up 22% this time. Its sunglasses have seen the biggest category increase with searches increasing 56%.
And in another sign that the Italian luxury group really has bounced back from its woes of a few years ago, sister brand Miu Miu climbed two places into silver medal position.
That was its highest ranking since the Index began and was largely down to demand for its pocket bag, a second collaboration with New Balance, as well as its Paris Fashion Week show featuring Emma Corrin, Zaya Wade, Mia Goth and Ethel Cain.
The biggest mover of the quarter was Versace, which jumped seven spots into eighth place as Donatella Versace timed her AW23 shows in Los Angeles to coincide with Oscars weekend, “merging the entertainment and fashion industries and generating over 39.8 million views on TikTok”. Searches for the brand increased 44% in the days after the event.
Also up were Valentino, Loewe and Dolce & Gabbana, which rose two spots each within the top 10.
But in bad news for Kering, there were further signs that last year’s scandal is continuing to affect former number one Balenciaga as it carried on dropping drop down the hottest brands ranking, falling seven places to 18th position.
And another Kering-owned number one — Gucci — fell too. It dropped seven places to ninth, its lowest position since the Index began. That suggests either that the exit of Alessandro Michele was bad news for the brand, or that the Michele-driven maximalism of the label is losing favour anyway at a time when many are talking about the rise of ‘quiet luxury’.
There were also two notable entries to the top 20 with SKIMS arriving in 17th place — the first time it has figured on the list. Over the past three months, searches on Lyst increased 30%, driven by demand for the brand’s sculpt bodysuit, the quarter’s third hottest product.
And in 20th spot, JW Anderson debuted in the ranking. Lyst said Jonathan Anderson (who also creatively directs Loewe) is the third designer to lead two of the Lyst Index’s Hottest Brands during the same quarter, following in Virgil Abloh’s and Miuccia Prada’s footsteps.
Lyst also focused on ‘Breakout Brands’ — which are “rising fast on a powerful and rapid upwards trajectory”. This time they include Khaite, worn by Ella Emhoff, Irina Shayk and Alexa Chung. It opened its first flagship in New York and searches rose 29%.
Magda Butrym also made an impact and its floral mini dress was its key trending product as its searches rose 76%. The brand was worn by Hailey Bieber, Rihanna and Sydney Sweeney.
And Ann Demeulemeester -- a longstanding-but-also-reviving label -- seemed to benefit from the arrival of creative chief Ludovic de Saint Sernin. He showcased his first collection and the brand was worn by Kendall Jenner and Hunter Schafer. Searches rose 17%.
As we’ve already learnt, that Uniqlo bag topped the hottest products list and it wasn’t the only ‘affordable’ piece in the ranking. Weekday’s genderless Astro Loose Baggy Jeans were in eighth place on the back of the 1990s grunge revival. They sold out in multiple colourways, and enjoyed search numbers three times those of the second-most-popular pair of loose-fit jeans.
Adidas Gazelles were the seventh hottest product of the quarter, largely down to celebrity endorsement. They’ve been worn by many big names, from two famous Harry’s (Prince and Styles), to Kate Moss and Helena Christensen. They’re the most searched sneaker of 2023 so far.
But as usual, the list was largely about luxury products.
Given that we’ve already been told Prada’s sunglasses helped it into top brand spot, it’s significant that Rick Owens’ $625 Kriester sunglasses have become a favourite among fashion shoppers. Lyst said that must-have shades “are quickly turning into a powerful new category for designers: demand rose 57% over the past three months alone”.
With those Weekday jeans riding the 1990s wave, brands and shoppers also embraced the return of the maxi skirt and denim pieces were worn by influencers such as Pernille Teisbaek, Caro Daur and Emilie Sindlev. Diesel’s Denim maxi was in fifth spot this time.
Bottega Veneta’s drop earrings were in sixth place, “a nod to the growing momentum of 2023’s trend quiet luxury” as searches for ‘quiet luxury' rose 105% on Lyst over the quarter.
And seen throughout Fashion Month, Alaïa’s Le Coeur bag was ninth, “cementing its status as a cult bag”. And at price rising into the thousands, it showed the variety of price levels in the list time time. Searches rose 39% quarter on quarter.
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