Versace’s tartan horde

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 13, 2018

A tartan horde marched across the catwalk in the latest show by the house of Versace, with the plaid of a dozen clans apparent in this fall 2018 collection staged Saturday night in a baroque Milan palazzo.

Though, like the booming mash-up of a soundtrack, plaid was stuck into all sorts of unlikely combinations alongside the house’s signature prints. From the blood red invitation and naughty patchwork schoolgirl kilts to the clan Stewart wool sleeves of golden silk topcoats and Highland plaid wool Zoot suits.
 
If this all sounds a little messy that’s because it often was. The effect heightened by the decision to dress many of the guys and girls in this mixed show on towering Pinball Wizard platforms, finished with multiple metal straps and studs.

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To be fair, this was not a complete fashion Waterloo. There were surely some strong commercial elements from fringed varsity scarves with huge Vs or Versace lettering, and sleekly cut gent’s suits; to a rather divine faux tiger skin trench-coat and a great series of patchwork sneakers with signature Greek frieze trim.
 
That said, there was a fraught air about the proceedings beneath the giant gilded chandeliers of this rented Milan palazzo. The show represented the fifth successive time that the backstage of a Versace show has been closed. Never a sign of tranquility in any house. Especially chez Versace, as Milan continues to be flooded with rumors that Donatella is resisting the introduction of a new creative director into the house – whatever reporting structure is eventually decided upon.
 
Hence, one could not ask the normally voluble Donatella for her reaction to actually staging this show. Which was perhaps just as well, given the relative modesty of the fashion fare.
 
Greeted by timid applause, the lady designer immediately departed under heavy security after this tartan tinted show. I never thought I’d live to see the day when the house of the Medusa would recall the Bay City Rollers, but that’s precisely what happened this evening in Milan.