×
41 891
Fashion Jobs
COTY
Account Manager - Downstate ny
Permanent · New York
THE REALREAL
Senior Manager, Recruiting Operations
Permanent · San Francisco
RALPH LAUREN
Polo Factory Store - General Manager
Permanent · Kittery
CENTRIC BRANDS
Area Manager - Bcbg Retail - Houston, Texas
Permanent · New York
CENTRIC BRANDS
Business Analyst
Permanent · Greensboro
CENTRIC BRANDS
Manager, Corporate Accounting
Permanent · New York
CENTRIC BRANDS
Senior Manager, Production/ Gestionnaire Sénior, Production
Permanent · Montréal
CENTRIC BRANDS
Area Manager - Bcbg Retail - South Florida Area (Miami Beach)
Permanent · Miami Beach
OLD NAVY
Loss Prevention Agent - Boynton Beach
Permanent · Boynton Beach
MARC JACOB'S
Global Email & CRM Manager
Permanent · New York
PVH
Senior Lead Business Process, Data Standardization And Data Governance - Pvh Corp
Permanent · Bridgewater Township
PVH
Senior Financial Analyst – Financial Systems
Permanent · Bridgewater Township
TJX COMPANIES INC.
Human Resources Business Partner i
Permanent · Pittston
TJX COMPANIES INC.
Distribution Center Supervisor
Permanent · North Las Vegas
PACSUN
sr. Product Manager - Men's Bottoms
Permanent · Anaheim
KOHLS
Manager, Category Marketing
Permanent · Menomonee Falls
KOHLS
Operations Manager, Level 1
Permanent · Edgewood
KOHLS
Senior Manager, Category Marketing
Permanent · Menomonee Falls
KOHLS
Full-Time Loss Prevention Officer
Permanent · Orlando
MACY'S
Product Manager – Discovery
Permanent · New York
MACY'S
Senior Consultant- Talent Assessment And Measurement
Permanent · New York
MACY'S
Macy’s Herald Square, New York, ny: Operations Manager
Permanent · New York

Yohji Yamamoto stages a masterfully tailored rebellion

Translated by
Isabelle Crossley
Published
today Jan 17, 2020
Reading time
access_time 2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

On the third day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, guests fatigued from the ongoing strikes in the French capital gathered to witness Yohji Yamamoto’s latest runway show. This season, the Japanese designer presented a collection that brought to mind a young, rebellious spirit through his use of deconstruction and layering along with refined tailoring.


Yohji Yamamoto - Fall-Winter2020 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


As the show opened, a female vocalist sang a with an air of melancholy about rising suicides amongst Japanese youth and a model swathed in a voluminous coat appeared on the runway. This was followed by looks including a trench coat which had been deconstructed and sewn back together; a coat that fused a tailored jacket with two types of checked tweed, notably featuring an asymmetric hem with fringing on one side. 
 
The following ensembles showcased a military style featuring deconstructed classic materials and a long-line silhouette. Then, gradually, more punk-inspired elements started to appear on the runway including red checked tartan, frayed-thread appliqués, and multiple layers of chains worn about the neck. Footwear included lace-up boots and sneakers, while other stand-outs included a thick wool sweater with a frayed hem worn over the top of a suit.


Yohji Yamamoto - Fall-Winter2020 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


The invitation to the show featured photos of women in the resistance during the Second World War. Many models also walked the runway in a resistance-style beret. A tie featured Japanese characters meaning “domestic” while an embroidered message along a hem read “last laugh." The slogan “Taxedo Park” was emblazoned on the back of a coat and a no-smoking sign added to the feeling of youthful playfulness.
 
The most striking slogan read “Naughty Yohji,” on the back of a black coat made from three-dimensional textiles. The show was brimming with emotion and a complex, rebellious spirit, conceived by a master tailor who has long been at the forefront of the “resistance” in fashion.


 

Copyright © 2020 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.