Yohji Yamamoto stages a masterfully tailored rebellion
today Jan 17, 2020
On the third day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, guests fatigued from the ongoing strikes in the French capital gathered to witness Yohji Yamamoto’s latest runway show. This season, the Japanese designer presented a collection that brought to mind a young, rebellious spirit through his use of deconstruction and layering along with refined tailoring.
As the show opened, a female vocalist sang a with an air of melancholy about rising suicides amongst Japanese youth and a model swathed in a voluminous coat appeared on the runway. This was followed by looks including a trench coat which had been deconstructed and sewn back together; a coat that fused a tailored jacket with two types of checked tweed, notably featuring an asymmetric hem with fringing on one side.
The following ensembles showcased a military style featuring deconstructed classic materials and a long-line silhouette. Then, gradually, more punk-inspired elements started to appear on the runway including red checked tartan, frayed-thread appliqués, and multiple layers of chains worn about the neck. Footwear included lace-up boots and sneakers, while other stand-outs included a thick wool sweater with a frayed hem worn over the top of a suit.
The invitation to the show featured photos of women in the resistance during the Second World War. Many models also walked the runway in a resistance-style beret. A tie featured Japanese characters meaning “domestic” while an embroidered message along a hem read “last laugh." The slogan “Taxedo Park” was emblazoned on the back of a coat and a no-smoking sign added to the feeling of youthful playfulness.
The most striking slogan read “Naughty Yohji,” on the back of a black coat made from three-dimensional textiles. The show was brimming with emotion and a complex, rebellious spirit, conceived by a master tailor who has long been at the forefront of the “resistance” in fashion.
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