Brioni: a fragrance of renewal

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Nov 23, 2014

Brioni is slowly continuing its revolution. The Italian menswear brand, acquired by Kering in 2012, has been fundamentally reorganising itself over the past two years, with its style being entrusted to an external designer: Brit Brendan Mullane (ex-Givenchy), the first Artistic Director in the history of the Rome-based tailor.

With the women's line abandoned, Brioni is refocusing on its men's wear, the core of its activity, while the style office has been transferred from Rome to Milan, and a new CEO, Gianluca Flore, has been named as the head of the house.

A new phase in this renewal process, the launch of a house fragrance, made in-house and as yet unlicensed, which aims to express the essence of the brand, with a scent that is both precious and original.

This isn't Brioni's first incursion in the world of fragrances as the brand did offer a beauty line with colognes in the past, while its last fragrance, a limited edition, dates back to 2009. Today, though, it is an "artistic project", entirely studied internally under the supervision of Brendan Mullane, in collaboration with several specialists, such as fragrance architect Raymond Matts and London designers Patrik Fredrikson and Ian Stallard.

The latter two also collaborated in the creation of the Brioni jewellery line (cufflinks and luxurious collar and tie pins) launched in June. The pair was in charge of creating the bottle, which has been designed as a glass cube sculpted as if in movement and enhanced with a bronze top.

It is this 75-millilitre bottle-piece of art that will figure at the centre of the campaign accompanying the launch of the fragrance, simply called Brioni. It will only be distributed in Brioni stores and a series of select perfume shops. And for six months, the fragrance will be sold exclusively in Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus department stores in the United States and at Selfridges in the United Kingdom.

Blending citrus with bergamot, lavender, magnolia and woody notes, "this fragrance, the materialisation of the most profound expression of man, has a luxurious scent that is easily recognisable," says the house.

"Created with the utmost refinement and know-how, it perfectly translates the second skin effect of Brioni suits. By capturing the very essence of the brand in a scent, the brand has created a fragrance that awakens the senses and emphasises the true elegance of the man wearing it," recounts the press release.