Capsule, Liberty and Agenda close out men's market with relaxed vibes.
The fashion trade shows made their way to Las Vegas to end the SS16 men’s market season and kick off the women's market season. The Capsule Show, Agenda and Liberty Fairs were at The Venetian Ballroom once again for what turned out to be a very relaxed three days. The hustle-and-bustle of the New York City shows remained on the East Coast, but the shows kept the energy flowing with over 500 exhibitors.
Designers and brands were showcased in “show-within-a-show” -esque curated sections. Capsule’s Above Tree Line and Sundries selections made a return with outdoor brands like Juniper Ridge, Jungmaven and Topo Designs, and grooming, lifestyle and apothecary brands like Vifa, Field Notes and Bellroy, which typically show in the sections. Liberty Fairs’ Freedom Hall, curated by Ouigi Theodore of Brooklyn Circus, also made its return featuring brands, Armando Cabral, the eponymous footwear brand of designer and model, Armando Cabral, Alexander Nash, Squadra Nera, Òkun and The Stronghold.
The lounges and grooming sections enticed attendees to relax, chat and network, but they could not keep the buyers from experiencing the new curated sections. The highlights of the shows were definitely Capsule’s Le Nouveau: New America section and Poggy’s World at Liberty Fairs.
Le Nouveau featured five emerging American designers who work with domestic manufacturers thus changing the landscape of American fashion. The brands included Rhude, 424, Homme Boy, Second Layer and Blackfist, which the latter two presented at Capsule’s NYFW: Men’s presentation. Each brand strays far away from what is considered to be traditional American fashion like tailoring, plaid shirts and rugged apparel. Instead, the brands draw inspiration from art, music, streetwear and youth subcultures like skaters, surfers and goths. Additional new sections included “Perspectives,” a selection of innovative brands curated by Harvey Nichols’ Head of Menswear, Darren Skey, and Tomorrow, which featured brands supported by the showroom and international sales platform, Tomorrow.
Poggy’s World at Liberty was a brand installation featuring six brands, all hand-selected by Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi, including UNITED ARROWS & SONS, NVy by Nick Wooster, adidas STANDARD 19 by UNITED ARROWS & SONS, Readymade, Parabellum, and DRx Romanelli. The installation featured collaborations by Cali Thornhill DeWitt x DRx for Poggy the man, READYMADE for UNITED ARROWS & SONS, GREATS for UNITED ARROWS & SONS.
On the opposite end of the show was Liberty’s Quest and Studios sections. Quest showcased the more popular European and American brands such as McQ Alexander McQueen, Stone Island, David Hart and Timex among others, while The Studios housed media creatives, Por Homme, Street Etiquette, Rawr Denim, Creations of LA, and High Fashion Living, that created content during the show with Liberty brands on the show floor.
The Agenda Show continued the relaxed show experience with attendees getting haircuts, trims and grooming from barbers. Popular streetwear brands, Diamond Supply Co., ’47, SSUR, and Staple, athletic brands like Champion, Reebok, Fila and Brand Black, and old school streetwear brands like Karl Kani and JNCO drew in a celebrity crowd like rappers Pusha T, Jim Jones, and Soulja Boy.
The men’s SS16 market season was a testament to how far menswear has come in the last ten years. Consumer interest and brands continue to trend away from tailoring for a more relaxed, unique look that is true to their personality. Loris Diran, for example, based his entire SS16 collection on comfort, functionality and unconventional suiting details and silhouettes. The collection paired suiting blazers with drop crotch trousers and introduced neoprene suits. The brands that have remained loyal to their tailored design and aesthetic have introduced fabrics that are functional and moveable despite the silhouette's slim cuts. Athleisure is on the rise, and designers are adjusting their collections according to the demand and their own personal tastes.
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