×
60 553
Fashion Jobs
MIZZEN+MAIN
Account Executive - Specialty ne & Midwest
Permanent · DALLAS
COTY
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Miami
LEVI'S
Part-Time Sales Supervisor
Permanent · Katy
SALLY BEAUTY HOLDINGS LLC
Outside Sales Representative -Cosmoprof
Permanent · Colorado Springs
SALLY BEAUTY HOLDINGS LLC
2nd Shift Inventory Control Specialist
Permanent · Jacksonville
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - North Point Marketcenter Rack
Permanent · Alpharetta
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - The Outlet Collection Rack
Permanent · Auburn
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - Galleria at Roseville
Permanent · Roseville
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations | Cherry Creek Mall (1 Year Contract)
Permanent · Denver
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations | Bellevue Square
Permanent · Bellevue
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager, Operations (Hyde Park)
Permanent · Chicago
OLD NAVY
Assistant Manager, Customer Operations - Airport Square
Permanent · North Wales
OLD NAVY
Assistant Manager, Customer Operations - Monroe Mktplace
Permanent · Selinsgrove
OLD NAVY
Asset Protection Coordinator - Florida West
Permanent · Estero
OLD NAVY
Assistant General Manager, Merchandising - Jefferson Mall
Permanent · Louisville
OLD NAVY
Assistant General Manager, Merchandising - Willowbrook-Houston
Permanent · Houston
OLD NAVY
Assistant Manager, Customer Operations - Oshkosh
Permanent · Oshkosh
OLD NAVY
General Manager - Ridgewood Court
Permanent · Jackson
OLD NAVY
General Manager - Monroe Marketplace
Permanent · Selinsgrove
OLD NAVY
Asset Protection Coordinator - Portland
Permanent · Beaverton
OLD NAVY
General Manager - Tikahtnu Commons
Permanent · Anchorage
OLD NAVY
General Manager - Watertown
Permanent · Watertown
By
AFP
Published
Sep 21, 2016
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Gucci in the pink as Michele turns up the flamboyance

By
AFP
Published
Sep 21, 2016

Alessandro Michele unveiled his most extravagantly flamboyant Gucci collection yet on Wednesday with a pink-hued spectacular on the opening day of the latest Milan fashion week.


Gucci - Spring-Summer2017 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula



The Roman designer credited with reviving the fortunes of what was a flagging brand returned to the themes that have underpinned his turnaround and, it seemed, pushed each envelope a little further.

Androgynous looks were more prevalent than ever, his trademark giant glasses more jewel-encrusted than before, the platform shoes more vertiginous and shimmering with gems.

The idea, according to Michele's notes to a show entitled "Magic Lanterns," was to create a collection in which "the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy."

That meant, in practice, that the converted railway siding that hosted the show was done up with pink velvet banquettes to create an ambience somewhere between a super-kitsch 70s nightclub and a courtesan's boudoir.

Slippers with platform wedges were said to have been inspired by Venetian prostitutes, gowns were enriched with embroideries and ruffles and there were sparkly gold and purple leggings aplenty.


Gucci - Spring-Summer2017 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula



Wild animals were a theme on bags and on the backs of austere tweedy jackets. Suits on the male models nearly all featured three-quarter length trousers while the bell-bottomed female versions might have been designed for a hairy-chested lothario from the early 70s.

The inspirations for hairstyles were equally eclectic - spanning a range from Mork and Mindy to Marie-Antoinette.

That eclecticism might have been what Michele was referring to in his notes when he explained that he was seeking to "cultivate the unexpected."

He certainly did that and star guests actress Dakota Johnson and the cellist Kelsey Lu looked impressed.

But the initial online reaction was not nearly as rapturous as has been the case for Michele's previous collections.

Has he gone too far this time? Gucci's French owners will not mind as long as sales keeping ticking up as they have done consistently under the designer's artistic stewardship.


Gucci - Spring-Summer2017 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula



- Leather bras -

Wunderkind, the youthful branch of German designer Wolfgang Joop's empire, made its Milan debut earlier in the day with a collection featuring long summer, partially transparent dresses over leather bras and transparent plastic trenchcoats with leather collars and cuffs.

Blugirl, the sexy younger sister of designer Anna Molinari's main womenswear brand Blumarine, served up a typically irreverent, mix-and-match collection.

Bohemian romanticism was to the fore in the form of 70s-style off-the-shoulder tops with puffball sleeves.

But the look was hardened sometimes with biker boots and sharp fringes helping to create a 'rock chick' edge, while a military theme was balanced out by ultra-feminine, delicate touches including frilly neckties.

Wunderkind is one of three Milan debutants among the 71 catwalk shows scheduled between Wednesday and Monday.

Paris-based couture star Giambattista Valli has shown his own younger line, Giamba, in Milan before but Friday's show will be the first time it has been included in the official programme.


Giamba - Fall-Winter2016 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula



The other newcomers are Chinese label Ricostru, the latest up-and-coming talent to benefit from the patronage of Giorgio Armani.

They will display their 2017 Spring/Summer collection at the Teatro Armani on Monday, a day which has been entirely given over to young designers in a move that has been branded something of a gamble.

Armani himself usually presents his main collection on the final day of Milan, thereby helping to delay the departure of hundreds of buyers and media for the next leg of the global fashion circuit, in Paris.

This year however the veteran designer is showing his main line on Friday and his Emporio Armani collection in Paris, generating fears the whole circus will decamp to the French capital on Sunday evening, after Dolce and Gabbana's afternoon show.

Carlo Capasa, the head of Italy's Chamber of Fashion, defended the decision. "I have a very high regard for young designers and I think it is right that we have a day just for them: the day of the future," he told reporters.

Copyright © 2022 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.