Milan Fashion Week extended and making room for a younger crowd

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Feb 23, 2015

Milan is doing everything in its power to gain back some ground in face of its fashion week competitors Paris, London and New York, announcing a renewed and particularly dense week.

The fall-winter 2015/2016 fashion week dedicated to womenswear is taking place in Milan from 25 February to 2 March, covering a full six days instead of the five and a half last season.

Actually, it is even gaining an extra night, since it has programmed a special event on the eve of its opening, Tuesday 24 February, dedicated to young talents and a big party. The show for the young talents is dedicated to the four winners of the "Next Generation" competition organised by the Camera della Moda, now in its 9th edition.

The highlight of this fashion week will be the Gucci runway show, on opening day. All eyes will be on the first collection designed by the label's new creative director, Alessandro Michele.

There is a certain electricity surrounding the Philosophy show, the second line from Alberta Ferretti, created by Italian designer and making its big comeback to the Milan catwalk after six years presenting in New York.

Overall, the week seems to be fairly balanced, mixing in major labels with emerging talents, but as usual, the reorganisation of the schedule has made some unhappy.

Indeed, several brands, unhappy with the time slots they were proposed, have decided to pull out of the official programme, such as Giamba, the second line from Giambattista Valli, which made its debut last season, as well as Roccobarocco and Kristina Ti, and a handful of others.

Other brands have decided to put the runway aside, opting instead for presentations, such as Andrea Incontri and Ports 1961, which will unveil the work of its new designer, Natasa Cagalj, on 26 February. Never before have presentations been so popular, with no less than 80 scheduled, included 9 new brands.

So, the figures for the week add up to 151 collections with 68 official runway shows (plus 4 off the calendar shows, including Dolce & Gabbana, on 1 March, which has not yet joined the Camera della Moda), compared to138 collections, 67 shows and 78 presentations in September.

Perhaps one of the biggest highlights to be noted is the return of Giorgio Armani as the closing show. The designer, who wasn't terribly happy on the last day of the September fashion week, provoking the general flight of other labels, will be back at the end of the week, on 2 March, with Dsquared2 and Ter et Bantine.

The latter is back to the Milan catwalk after a lightning round in Paris. The brand, which was acquired by Fondo Opera Italia, is now being represented by young German designer Kostas Murkudis following the departure of founder Manuela Arcari.