Milan Fashion Week promises to be intense
today Jun 17, 2015
A week rich with novelties and increasingly linked to the Florence trade fair Pitti Uomo. This is the new face of Men’s fashion week in Milan, which is being held for the first time under the leadership of Carlo Capasa, the new president of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion (CNMI).
The schedule for the week, which will span 19 to 23 June, begins on Friday with the opening of the event. The afternoon will notably include the opening of the first and only store in the world for the ultra exclusive menswear label Uman, from the Caruso group, while the evening will see the first runway show of the week. Thus, kicking things off will be the couture sport brand Dirk Bikkembergs which will take place at Termemilano, the first time the space is hosting a show, followed by a major celebration.
For the rest, Milan’s fashion week follows in line with its January edition. 39 runway shows are on the schedule, including Dolce & Gabbana on Saturday and Pal Zileri on Monday, as well as shows by Chinese designers Zeng Fengfei and Jiwenbo on Tuesday. A total of 43 compared to 42 in January and 45 last June, plus some thirty presentations.
There are still several names missing from this edition though. Like last June, Iceberg will not be walking the runway, opting for a presentation instead, just like Z Zegna, the young line from the Ermenegildo Zegna group, which on Sunday will be unveiling its first collection designed by Francesco Muzi, former head designer at Jil Sander, with Murray Scallon.
However, Ports 1961, whose men’s line is designed by Milan Vukmirovic, is returning to the podium… The podium at Pitti Uomo that is. Likewise for Moschino, who showed in London the past two seasons.
Returning to Milan are Marni Homme, absent from Milan for several seasons, and Andrea Incontri, but in presentation form for the latter. Trussardi and Tod’s are also sticking with presentations.
Roberto Cavalli, purchased in April by equity firm Clessidra, is taking a pass this season, as is Frankie Morello. After forming a partnership with Italian Fmm, the label’s two founding designers, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti, took back full control of their brand, now manufactured under licence by Modalis, which also produces the John Galliano label.
German designer Tom Rebl, installed in Milan since 2008 and who has shown at the last two seasons, has opted for a presentation in Paris. Also leaving the Milan catwalk are Swiss Julian Zigerli (who is presenting his collection in Paris), Malaysian Edmund Ooi, who showed in Giorgio Armani’s theatre, and Korean D. Gnak.
As for John Varvatos, after 13 seasons in Milan he is returning to New York this year to participate in the very first men’s fashion week there, taking place from 13th to 16th July.
These losses are nevertheless compensated by significant returns, such as Marni, who has not shown in Milan since fall/winter 2009-10, on Saturday, and Pringle of Scotland, which will be celebrating its 200th anniversary with a show put on the Michael Clark Company, on Sunday. The collection, designed by Italian Massimo Nicosia, will be unveiled during a salon show followed by an exclusive cocktail party, all being held at the Sozzani gallery of famous concept store Corso Como.
There are also some new names on the calendar, such as Damir Doma, scheduled for Monday. The native Croatian designer’s eponymous brand has left the Paris catwalks, where it had been showing since 2007, to join the Milan calendar, the city where it has just set up its studio after a few setbacks.
Monday will also see the first appearance of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan. The Argentinean designer, who showed outside of Milan Fashion Week last season, is part of the official programme this time, as is Facetasm. Japanese brand Hiromichi Ochiai is showing for the first time in Milan in the theatre provided by Giorgio Armani. Finally, also showing on Monday will be Pal Zileri, but not as part of the official calendar.
The Fashion Week can also count on the other major houses as well of course, from Giorgio Armani to Prada. And in between these legends are the newest players in the Made in Italy arena, such as the men’s line N°21 by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the young brand Christian Pellizzari, and Italian-Haiitian Stella Jean, which made its debut on the men’s calendar in January.
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