Moschino: at King Jeremy Scott's court of baroque and rock 'n roll

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jun 21, 2015

Early Thursday night, a compact crowd was gathered before the Corsini Palace, along the banks of the Arno, trying to get into the very exclusive Moschino runway show, the guest of honour at this season’s Pitti Uomo.

Nothing in the world could’ve kept fashionistas and the Florentine public from missing the Jeremy Scott show, the designer who has been behind the successful Italian fashion house Aeffe for several seasons.

Every Moschino show designed by the American talent, followed by his fans like a pop star, incites hysteria. The fashion show was also the last big event of Pitti Uomo and, from Katy Perry to the full panel of executives of the men’s trade show, the audience was one of the most chic to be found.

Indeed, it was an audience worthy of the royal collection concocted by Jeremy Scott for menswear next season, with the designer also unveiling a few very feminine Marie-Antoinette looks for the occasion!

In an ironic blend of sport (with biker outfits in tribute to Valentino Rossi), rock n’ roll, and 18th century style baroque, the models crossed nine rooms with the ceilings and walls decorated with frescoes, surprising and enthralling the audience with each look.

A festive ambiance to go along with show, where the models strutted down a disco-like catwalk lit up in every colour as they walked over it, decked out with huge golden crowns.

Made-up, wearing lipstick and a Casanova-style wig, each one exuded magnificence, such as the young gentlemen who showed themselves off with so much joy and vanity before the court of Versailles in outfits that sometimes bordered on the ridiculous. Here too, three centuries later, excess was still the rule.

Tapestry suits, extravagant bowties, embroidered low-neck waistcoats, underneath revealing splendid frilly shirts, marquis-style short pants, black or colourful zippered frock coats, put on over simple golden briefs… Nothing is too precious for the Moschino man.

With everything playing on the luxurious and ironic details, from a pink boa worn nonchalantly to the golden brocade shoulders of a coat to the feathers decorating the hairstyles, not to mention the lace gloves and beauty marks painted on some cheeks.

This whole collection for the irreverent man of course includes a few very sexy pieces, such as the black see-through ruffled pant-shirt ensemble...