New York Fashion Week in full transition mode
New York Fashion Week, taking place 12 to 19 February, is closing a chapter and starting a new phase, a serious revision. Opening the series of fashion weeks, New York, London, Milan, Paris, this February session in the Big Apple dedicated to women's ready-to-wear collections for fall-winter 2015-16, will indeed be taking place for the last time at the Lincoln Center and under the name "Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week".
With Mercedes-Benz, the main sponsor since 2007, bowing out of the event, as of September 2015 it will be called "New York Fashion Week" and will no longer take place at the Lincoln Center, where it has been held since 2010.
IMG, which has owned and produced the Fashion Week since 2001, is also in the final stage of negotiations to take possession of "Made Fashion Week", the rival event founded by Mazdack Rassi, Jenné Lombardo and Keith Baptista, dedicated to young designers and held at Milk Studios, in New York's meatpacking district.
A single organiser will thus be in charge of the two fashion weeks as of September, while the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), which has acquired the Fashion Calendar, the schedule that was managed by its creator, for 69 years, should provide a bit of coherency to the general calendar, with a good part of the runway shows scattered about around the city.
New York Fashion Week has grown exponentially over the last few years and welcomes a total of more than 350 collections every season: the 80 Fashion Week runway shows produced by IMG, the thirty or so shows on the Made calendar and the rest the some other 200 shows and presentations held in independent venues.
To clear up some current confusion, this fashion week will actually begin on Wednesday, a day before the official start date, with, in addition to several presentations, "VFiles Made Fashion", the runway show organised by VFiles.com, a half social network, half publishing house fashion site that calls upon emerging talents via the Web.
On Thursday the 12th, the official week will commence with Nicholas K, the label run by duo Christopher and Nicholas Kunz. Another highly awaited media event on Thursday, the presentation, not on the calendar, of the collaboration between rapper Kanye West and Adidas.
Some of the new names to watch out for include Orley, a brand created in 2012 by brothers Matthew and Alex Orley and Matthew's fiancée Samatha Florence, featuring knitwear and quality clothing, which will walk the runway on Friday the 13th, and La Petite Robe by Chiara Boni. The Italian designer who first showed last year at Pitti Uomo will present on the New York catwalk for the first time on Monday the 16th.
Also on the programme for the first time at New York Fashion Week is Banana Republic. The brand from the Gap group, the second season designed by Marissa Webb, will present its collection on Saturday the 14th during an interactive event in the Tribeca neighbourhood.
Some of the other big names that have signed on for this season: Lacoste, Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Victoria Beckham, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, Prabal Gurung, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, Thom Browne, Tory Burch, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Diesel Black Gold, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs, who will close the week, on Thursday the 19th.
At Made Fashion Week, notable participants will be luxury streetwear label Tim Coppens and the Cushnie et Ochs house, while one of the stars will once again be the artistic director of Moschino, Californian Jeremy Scott.
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