Pitti Uomo 87 expands with more exhibitors, space and projects

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Nov 13, 2014

Pitti Uomo is presenting itself more than ever as the world’s premier men’s fashion trade show. More and more brands are choosing Pitti Immagine’s flagship event as a showcase to unveil their new projects, as the return of important industry players has been announced for the next session, to be held from 13 to 16 January 2015 in Florence.

The 87th edition will welcome, among others, the German skiwear brand Bogner, which will unveil its men’s accessories and apparel collections; the French brand Fusalp, which will launch its new project; and North Sails, which has been acquired by the investment firm Oakley Capital, and which will present its new look in Florence. It’s a decision that was made by CEO Eric Bijlsma, formerly at the helm at Scotch & Soda, another brand loyal to Pitti Uomo, which has once more chosen the Florentine show, this time to present its special project “House of Scotch”.

In total, 1,090 companies—as compared with 1,030 in January 2014—will present their autumn-winter 2015/2016 menswear collections. Of these, 436, or 40%, will come from 30 foreign countries. Added to that will be 70 womenswear collections at Pitti W. “We’ve never had as many new requests to participate, as we have had this year—to the order of 300—especially from international companies, probably also because other events have changed their dates. That has allowed us to make a further selection," said Pitti Uomo head Rafaello Napoleone during a press conference held on Monday, November 10 in Milan. At the time, he was presenting the agenda for the winter session to be put on in January.

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Another reason that organizers can be satisfied: the return of big names, such as the German brands Drykorn and Windsor, as well as the British brand Superdry. "The event is growing in terms of number of companies interested in participating in Pitti Uomo, the groups of brands present and the number of nations invited," added Agostino Poletto, deputy general manager of Pitti Immagine. 

The 87th edition will welcome "a selection of 13 high quality Russian brands (10 for women and 3 for men)." Russia, a guest of honor for the next session, was also present at the womenswear trade show Super, which was organized last September in Milan by Pitti Immagine.

Sweden will also be honored with six menswear brands, as well as the United States, another nation to be showcased during the Pitti’s next session, with the new area: "Born in the USA". The initiative, organized in partnership with the American trade fair organization Liberty Fairs, which aims to promote local production and American manufacturing through twenty or so American brands that range from classic styles to sportswear, founded and producing in the United States. 

These brands will be presented together in a new, 8,600 ft2 area called "gli Archivi", dedicated to the launch of research projects, and be located adjacent to another initiative, with twenty or so brands of “a new kind between menswear and womenswear”, details of which will be announced later. 

The restoration of la Fortezza da Basso, which houses the event, will begin in January, forcing organizers to move the reception, which is traditionally located at the Fortezza’s exterior entrance, to the interior.

Among the special projects that were already been announced a few days ago at Marni’s menswear fashion show: Hood By Air’s event and the "Cloakroom", a performance staged by the director of the Galliera fashion museum, Olivier Saillard, and performed by the Scottish actress Tilda Swinton.

To be added to all of this is a number of projects dedicated to Italian design, starting with the fashion show of Andrea Incontri (also creative director of Tod's menswear), which has left Milan Fashion Week for Florence. Also on the agenda are presentations by the winners of the contest Who is On Next? Uomo 2014, T.Lipop and Alberto Premi Design, as well as the project Arrivo, a four-hand collection inspired by the world of cycling by the young designers Matteo Gioli and Stefano Ughetti. That’s not to forget a special event put on by Peuterey.

It’s an intense program that visitors can enjoy as they wander about Pitti along paths plotted by "Walkabout Pitti", the theme chosen by organizers for the 87th edition, since "after soldiers, shepherds and explorers, journalists and buyers are now the true champions of the new market," said Agostino Poletto, smiling.