Schiaparelli and Iris van Herpen break the rules at Haute Couture Week

Elsa Schiaparelli brought the eccentric and the fantastical to the haute couture runways of Paris Monday with a Schiaparelli collection steeped in theatrical paradox.

Inspired by the idea of brightness, light and color, the circus-like spectacle pitted pure silhouettes with incisive lines against imaginative and outlandish details that resulted in an assured and spectacular aesthetic. Architectural jackets, structured shoulders and asymmetric tailoring brought a futuristic element to the look, while draped trapeze dresses and quilted shorts brought a dreamy lightness to the collection. Tuxedos and black jumpsuits were broken up by jolts of marine blue or shocking pink, while spangled silks and iridescent velvets invoked a haughtiness and the mythological constellation motifs lent things a dreamy, surreal quality.

Structure also played a huge part in the Dutch designer Iris van Herpen's show, where 3D dresses were the order of the day. From a palette of nudes, blacks and metallics, the designer crafted a series of dreamlike gowns that featured organic and naturalistic details. Cocktail dresses featured structured hips and a gnarly, horn-like motif, while delicate netting spiraling from a slip dress brought to mind the coral reef. Imitation sea foam bubbled upwards from sleeves and hemlines, while elsewhere a pleated grey maxi dress fanned out from the shoulders in a semi-translucent sphere. The ethereal vibe was underpinned by the shoes, which featured suspended platforms to make it appear as though the models were levitating down the catwalk.