Nobody could accuse Sir Paul Smith of slowing down, even in the year he celebrates his 50th anniversary: he has still managed to produce a series of men’s and women’s collections, and has just opened his own foundation.
“Raw, instinctive, arty and dangerous,” said Miuccia Prada with a naughty twinkle in her eye after a path-breaking Miu Miu show in Paris on Tuesday, the final day of the 30-day international runway season.
A key test of a designer is influence – and few have had so much influence this century as Hedi Slimane, creative director of Celine, who sent out a haut bobo collection on Friday with plenty of cosmopolitan good taste.
At the latest Milan fashion week, designers have expressed real ecological awareness for the first time in their shows, without sacrificing creativity, business or glamour, as in any fashion week worthy of its name.
Cheap, Chinese-made nylon burkas are flooding Afghanistan's north as consumers turn to affordable, mass-produced fabrics. But in Kabul a small, determined fashion house is fighting to preserve traditional textiles.
Diesel's premium label, headed by Andreas Melbostad, expanded its horizons at Milan Fashion Week Men with a collection displaying multi-ethnic inspirations gleaned from the brand's intercontinental travels.